The crux starts after a traverse along ledges above the Mountaineer's Rt. At the steepest section of the North Face, ascend an obvious thin hands 5.8 (approx. rating) splitter for a few short pitches to the large recess below the summit. The number of pitches will vary since I free soloed all but the crux section.
Ascend the East buttress route a few hundred feet until higher than the Mountaineer's Rt. and traverse right. Top out at the summit. I would be interested if anyone else has climbed on this side.
I did a hammerless solo using a 60m 9mm rope, several small to medium nuts and prusik for belay. Encountered snow and ice on ledges of the upper pitches. I used a found piece of metal to scrape ice from the thin ledges. Recommend an ice cleaning tool.
1971 Hammerless FA 5.8 North Face. Taken from the ...
1971 Hammerless FA North Face. Looking down the sn...