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 ADVANCED
Mt. Whitney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Iceberg Spire" T 
East Buttress T 
East Face T 
Mountaineer's Route, The 
North Face T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Keith Leaman 1971 solo
New Route: Yes
Season: late summer
Page Views: 1,185
Submitted By: Keith Leaman on Apr 5, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Mt. Whitney North Face, hammerless solo FA 5.8 197...

Description 

The crux starts after a traverse along ledges above the Mountaineer's Rt. At the steepest section of the North Face, ascend an obvious thin hands 5.8 (approx. rating) splitter for a few short pitches to the large recess below the summit. The number of pitches will vary since I free soloed all but the crux section.


Location 

Ascend the East buttress route a few hundred feet until higher than the Mountaineer's Rt. and traverse right. Top out at the summit. I would be interested if anyone else has climbed on this side.


Protection 

I did a hammerless solo using a 60m 9mm rope, several small to medium nuts and prusik for belay. Encountered snow and ice on ledges of the upper pitches. I used a found piece of metal to scrape ice from the thin ledges. Recommend an ice cleaning tool.



Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
1971 Hammerless FA 5.8 North Face. Taken from the East Buttress, this is approximately where I abandoned plans to solo the East Face and traversed to the north side in favor of a more adventurous route.
1971 Hammerless FA 5.8 North Face. Taken from the ...
1971 Hammerless FA North Face. Looking down the snow and ice covered ledges, my footprints are visible descending to the point where I unroped above the 5th class pitches, and began free soloing the remainder of the route.
1971 Hammerless FA North Face. Looking down the sn...
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