North Face  5.7+

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Bob Bliss, Don Jones, Andy Lichtman Submitted By:  Matthias Holladay on Mar 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The north face is a dark, intimidating wall. Bob Bliss, however, in Rosebrough's guide, describes a "gentle flower-strewn-path-of-a-climb."

Rosebrough notes from personal correspondence with Bob: "Climb 40 feet to a ramp. From the ramp, climb right (west) up 3rd and 4th class ledges and short chimneys and then 70 feet of broken rock to a formation he called 'a bowl of tears.' At this point, climb up a steep, left-facing slab/dihedral and then 4 pitches up a chimney crack behind a great plate. Traverse 60 feet right (west) below the 'plate glass' smooth slabs and then 90 up feet via a crack in a left-facing dihedral with a small overhang at the top (5.7). Three long pitches of 3rd and 4th lead to snow and then up left (east) to a 'pass' climbing on dirt or mud. From here, 2 more easy pitches up broken blocks lead to the summit ridge."

Location 

Start below the central black streak . . . .

Protection 

Standard alpine rack.