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Torre Lusy
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North Face T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: M. Lusy and Z. Pompanin 1914.
Page Views: 422
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on May 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Me, after the climb.

Description 

The route begins on the North side of the tower, (towards the Tofana). It follows the line of least resistance and finishes towards the left side of the face on the arete leading to the summit. This is a very old route, and is a favorite of the local guides for an introduction to the area. It's a fun route; steep but easy, with great holds on marvelous rock.

The very old Club Alpino Italiano guidebook by Antonio Berti rated this as a Grade IV, or roughly a 5.4/5.5 climb.


Location 

This route begins near the center of the tower, which lies to the left of Torre del Barancio. The descent is by rappel down the South face. Two ropes (50 meters) are required for the rappels.


Protection 

Fixed protection; old pitons and drilled-in anchors. Bring a light rack of a few wired stoppers and small to medium Camalots. Some longer slings, and lots of quickdraws are necessary.



Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Mauro Bernardi and Rodger Raubach on the summit of Torre Lusy. Rain just starting!
Mauro Bernardi and Rodger Raubach on the summit of...
Starting the 4th pitch traverse left
Starting the 4th pitch traverse left
Rough estimate of the first 5 (short) pitches and belays on Nordwand.  The last pitch traverses left to a rap station on the back of the tower.
BETA PHOTO: Rough estimate of the first 5 (short) pitches and ...
Don't forget to look around while running up the Nordwand.
Don't forget to look around while running up the N...
Torre Lusy
Torre Lusy
Rodger midway up lead #4, where the route approaches Torre Barancio. This section is UIAA Gr. IV-.
Rodger midway up lead #4, where the route ap...
Route sketch (approximate) of Via Normale; photo taken from summit of Torre Quarta Bassa.
BETA PHOTO: Route sketch (approximate) of Via Normale@SEMICOLO...
Comments on North Face Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
May 29, 2011

Sorry for the pretty sparse details, but it's been 47 years since I did this climb. It is a real fun route.

By Rodger Raubach
Dec 15, 2011

My description includes linking pitches by using a 60 meter rope. In "the old days" it was a 3-4 pitch climb!

By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

A fun route and good intro to Dolomite climbing...good training to spot camouflaged, ring bolts every 40 ft :) This route switchbacks all over the North face. Even with double ropes and judicious use of gear/long runners, we broke it up into ~4 pitches to avoid drag. The Dolomiten classics guide by Mauro Bernardi breaks this up into 6 short pitches.

By Rodger Raubach
Jan 13, 2012

Even though the route tends to wander around, the primary reason for many short leads is that this is a favorite with guides taking beginners up a "real climb." The famous "guides belay" allows beginners to fall "up."

By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2013

Did this route again today: 50 years TO THE DAY after my first ascent. The first 10 meters are what Mauro Bernardi has called "abgespeckt" or greasy like bacon, due to the enormous amount of traffic seen by this climb.