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Jones and Grassmann traversed the Columbia Icefield to get to the face, a super wilderness adventure. The first 5,000 feet was accidentally climbed under a "thousand ton groaning monster" ice cliff where the north face glacier calves into the gullies below.
On the upper North Face, the Chouinard Ice Hammer proved its superiority to the Pterodactyl. Jones thought the ice was at least 55 degrees, steeper than Athabasca's North Face: "Convenient to rest the forehead on the ice between moves." (Jones, CAJ, 1973) Photos show serac/cornice features that may threaten North Face ascensionists.
A new variation avoids the 5,500 feet of loose rock on the lower face. Climb the Northeast Ridge to the Main-Middle Col. Then descend north to the good ice climbing on the upper face.