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Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
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North Face T 
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North Face 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a AI2-3

Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a AI2-3 [details]
FA: Yvon Chounaird, Joe Faint, and Chris Jones, July 1967
Page Views: 809
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 25, 2010

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From the AAJ, 1968 probably.


All three members of the first ascent team were involved with other new routes, both in Yosemite and the Canadian Rockies. In 1967, climbing ice of any angle was sketchy with one axe, a dagger or ice hammmer, and crampons with front points that were A3.

The North Face is usually approached using the Gmoser Highway. For a shorter and cheaper approach I would recommend using the same approach as the Southwest Face; Settlers Road. Details for the Assinniboine Lake approach can be found at the bottom of the MP page for the Southwest Face. Connecting from the Sturdee Col to the North Face looks quite reasonable in George Bell's photo.

The North Face is the route to do when the North Ridge is either too busy or snowy. Some May ascents have found good condition. Bring two tools, screws, rock protection, and two ropes for long rappels.

In 1977, Ray Jotterand did the first winter and solo ascent in three hours.

Mountain guides share condition reports @ ACMG

Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Assiniboine North Face <br />From the article about the first ascent in the AAJ.
BETA PHOTO: Assiniboine North Face From the article about the ...
NORTH FACE &  <br />ASSINNIBOINE LAKE COL <br />Photo by MP contributor George Bell <br /> <br />yellow - North Ridge (5.5) <br />red - North Face (mixed) <br />orange - route to Assinniboine Lake <br />violet - traverse to southwest face

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