North Face  5.6

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  4 March 1956, H. Davis and R. Douglass Season:  Any, spring and fall avoid the summer heat, some snow can be expected in wi Submitted By:  Robert Cort on Nov 12, 2010 You & This Route Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Despite not finding a summit register on Low Horn ...

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Description 

Approach by rapping down from the summit of Low Horn 1 to the saddle between #1 and 2. Scramble up a large ledge to one of two crack systems. The left crack is wider, and this is the one we climbed. Climb one pitch to the summit. An awkward off width move is the crux.

Descent: Either rap back down to the North (the way you came) or scramble down to the south and one very short rap will land you on the saddle between #'s 2 and 3. Two Notes: 1) as you scramble down to the north, it almost looks like you can scramble to the saddle, but caution a steep gash prevents a walk down. 2) Avoid rapping to the south unless you plan to climb #3 as the gully to the west from this saddle is loose steep, and cliffs out.

Location 

Scramble up a diagonal ledge from the small saddle between Low Horn #1 and Low Horn #2. (Low Horn #1 is the northernmost of the Low Horns, and is just east of the summit of Gertch).

Protection 

Light alpine rack.

Photos of North Face Slideshow

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Kenny bringing the rest up to the summit of Low Ho...