This has some of the steeper and more difficult lines at Java Dome. It is better for climbing in the heat of summer and worse in the winter than the south face.
The routes on the wall are long, typically around 150 feet (the routes on the left side are a bit shorter as they start higher up in the approach gully). Walk off descents can eliminate a rope, but if you want to rappel you will want a second rope, as well as some webbing and rap rings to freshen up the anchors. Hubbel's blue guidebook shows 3 bolted anchors, but there are only 2; however, there is also a sturdy juniper. Keep in mind that all of the bolted anchors consist of old buttonheads and/or Stardryvens.
Although not far from the road, this area has a nice remote feel to it. The numerous boulder caves give an eerie feeling that a wild mountain tiger is waiting to pounce on you. Another really cool feature worth checking out is the COLOSSAL boulder that is perched above this wall. It is massively undercut on all sides and resting on lightly cemented kitty litter. Who knows when it will come down?
Finally, one of my favorite things about this wall is that it makes a perfect rope soloing marathon day. You can easily set up a toprope rig on all of the routes quickly, and easily do them in a day for close to a 1000' of foot crippling fun. I've really enjoyed the times that I have been up here, and hopefully you will, too.
Approach similarly as for Atlantis Slab.
From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd just past Conifer, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte (96) towards Deckers, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal. You may have to walk along the road a bit to the trailheads. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis Slab a short way up.
To get to the north face routes most easily, take the north drainage. Hike past the base of atlantis slab and look for a trail, or path of least resistance slightly rightward towards a pile of huge boulders in the bottom of a gulley. Enter the big cave below the largest boulder, and work your way up and left, then up and right, through bushes and boulder mantling. You will end up at the base of a small slab with a wet streak.
Hike up this slab, up through some pea-sized gravel, and make your way towards a pronounced gully at the base of the north-facing Grey Wave Walls.
The approach takes approximately 20 minutes, and really only has a small amount of unpleasant bush wrestling.
A. Clear Lycra, 10+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
B. Hammerhead, 10 R, 1p, 150', bolts.
C. El Nino, 10 PG-13, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Burley Dudes, 11+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
E. Way Jingus, 11, 1p, 150', TR.
F. Platte Magic, 10 PG-13, 1p, 150', bolts.
G. Traditionalists at Work, 9, 1p, 180', bolts.
H. Traditionalists at Play, 8 X, 1p, 150', TR.
8 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Face:
Platte Magic 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For North Face
Traditionalists at Work 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CO
: South Platte
: ... : North Face
The furthest right route on the Gray Wall on the left side of Java Dome. To reach this wall hike the north gully past Atlantis Dome. Follow a faint trail that descends from Atlantis into the bottom of the drainage and meets with the base of Java Dome at its lowest point. Scramble over a few boulders and up a 3rd or 4th class cleft in the slab for a few hundred feet or so. The routes will be on the right and fairly noticable since most have new bolts. Traditionalists at Work starts just righ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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