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Concord Tower
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North Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Beckey and Parrott, 1956
Page Views: 728
Submitted By: BenCooper on Sep 12, 2009
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Description 

Begin from the top of the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower. Follow a crack system to a large ledge with some small trees (5.6). From the ledge, head up and right on somewhat hollow and flaky sounding rock until you see some left-trending crack systems. Follow these left and up to the summit block where several options are present, any of which go at moderate grades (5.6-5.7ish).

I've climbed this route twice, and each time was different as there were multiple options/cracks to take on the 2nd and 3rd (final) pitches. Fortunately, the going is fairly easy, so pick you plum and climb.

This route can stay wet after a rain. Seeping, somewhat rotten rock down low is not fun in my book. But it's worth the beautiful rock found higher up the tower.


Location 

The route begins at the top of the notch between Concord Tower and Liberty Bell. Approach from the west side of WA Pass, via the Blue Lake Trail and climber's trail up the gully.


Protection 

1 set of cams, 1 set of stoppers, and some slings to reduce drag. 2 ropes (50m ropes work fine) for the descent, though we did see intermediate rap anchors that would allow for 1 rope to be used...sure would've made pulling the rope easier.



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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Sep 25, 2009

I've descended using a single 50m rope before. It's tight, but it works. From the summit, rap 25' down to the lower of two trees at the notch. Then a full 25m rap to an anchor down the gully and skiers left. The next rap gets you to the terrace and a final rap puts you at the base.