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Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Liberty Bell Group
> Concord Tower
North Face
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.4 from 121
votes
Routes in Concord Tower
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Around the cave we go T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cave Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Face Var. Right (Directisimo) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Up In Arms T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Beckey and Parrott, 1956 |
| Page Views: | 10,738 total · 60/month |
| Shared By: | BenCooper on Sep 12, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Begin from the top of the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower. Follow a crack system to a large ledge with some small trees (pitch 1, 5.6). From the ledge, go right on easy terrain then straight up on some hollow and flaky sounding rock. The pitch ends right after what appears to be 10-15 feet of an unprotectable blank wall, but has huge huecos with great holds. (pitch 2, 5.7). From the belay head left up some crack systems (easily takes a #3 cam) then go up two 5.0 slabs and up a bear hug flake just below the summit (pitch 3, 5.6+-5.7ish).
Going right after or during the second pitch will put you on the Tunnel Route (also known as Cave Route on MP). So, stay left after the blank wall with huecos to stay on the North Face route.
This route can stay wet after a rain, and can be icy early and late season. But it's worth the beautiful rock found higher up the tower.
Descent
Descend off the two summit bolts going down the route, right below one of pitch 3's 5.0 slabs you'll see two more bolts, rappel off these to the bushy ledge of pitch one, and rappel from here to the base of the climb. Hike out the way you came.
Going right after or during the second pitch will put you on the Tunnel Route (also known as Cave Route on MP). So, stay left after the blank wall with huecos to stay on the North Face route.
This route can stay wet after a rain, and can be icy early and late season. But it's worth the beautiful rock found higher up the tower.
Descent
Descend off the two summit bolts going down the route, right below one of pitch 3's 5.0 slabs you'll see two more bolts, rappel off these to the bushy ledge of pitch one, and rappel from here to the base of the climb. Hike out the way you came.
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