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 ADVANCED
Eichorn's Pinnacle
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East Face, Center Crack T 
North Face T 
West Pillar T 
West Pillar Direct T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Glen Dawson & Jules Eichorn, 1931
Season: summer
Page Views: 5,858
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 22, 2006

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Eichorn's Pinnacle.

Description 

Despite being 5.4, this is a very cool climb, and a great way to cap a day on Cathedral Peak. When you look down on it from the summit of Cathedral, you'll know you have to do it.

Location 

Climb Cathedral Peak and downclimb a short ways until you can easily traverse to the notch between Eichorn Pinnacle and the summit. Rope up and do a horizontal pitch with lots of exposure but easy climbing. The climb starts here and goes up and to the right.

Protection 

Normal rack, nothing bigger than 2-3 inches.


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
The view from Eichorn's Pinnacle
The view from Eichorn's Pinnacle
Me on Eichorn pinnacle
Me on Eichorn pinnacle
Cathedral Range from Eichorn's summit
Cathedral Range from Eichorn's summit
Joe and Gino atop Eichorn.  Thu 23 Aug 2012.
Joe and Gino atop Eichorn. Thu 23 Aug 2012.
Eichorn Pinnacle as seen from Cathedral Peak.
BETA PHOTO: Eichorn Pinnacle as seen from Cathedral Peak.
From the Cathedral Peak summit, looking down at Eichorn Pinnacle
From the Cathedral Peak summit, looking down at Ei...
view from the Cathedral saddle
view from the Cathedral saddle
Steve on the Summit of Eichorn Pinnacle
Steve on the Summit of Eichorn Pinnacle

Comments on North Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 26, 2006

I agree, when you look at the pinnacle from atop Cathedral, you probably feel the need to stand on top of it. However, the north face route itself is unexceptional (the old pins are nice though.) After the great moves, asthetic line, wonderful rock, beautiful summit, etc. of Cathedral, Eichorn felt kind of 'blah' to me. Perhaps I was just tired. My thought is that you shouldn't feel too bad if you miss it.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 29, 2007

While the route itself is unmemorable, the summit is well worth the effort.

Due to the wandering nature of the route, rope drag will be heinous if you clip the first pin or place much gear.

A single rope rap (60'??) gets you back down.
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

To avoid rope drag it is possible to belay at the end of the traverse. The belay isn't that bad, and it does reduced drag a lot.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Sep 26, 2011

I disagree entirely that the climbing is uninteresting. I suppose if it were a route at some junky local crag, I'd maybe agree?

Not only is the climbing quite thoughtful for the grade, it's on quality rock that is quite different from the rock you just climbed on Cathedral. Since you can't preview the route from the approach (it's around the "backside" of the pinnacle) it's a series of small surprises from the end of the traverse all the way to the summit. Even the traverse is fun, taking you quickly from zero exposure to hundreds of feet of air underneath you.

I found that other than the three well-placed fixed pins, I only needed one piece of gear for the whole route.

From the summit of Eichorn, you get an unparalleled view of Cathedral, and other climbers experiencing the summit you just came down from. The view is phenomenal. Better than the view from the summit of Cathedral. Both my partner and I agreed that Eichorn was the highlight of the day.

Even if everything else about it was mediocre, it's a pinnacle... What more reason do you need to climb it?

Don't skip it!
By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I agree with Chris. The setting is fantastic, the climbing is steep for the grade, the pro looks absent but is 100% there.

If you are doing this with an inexperienced or less confident partner, you might try this setup:
Move towards the route from the traverse from Cathedral.
Set a belay at the beginning of the hand traverse. There is a good body pod as well as a crack for ~0.75" or 1" cams.
Lead out the hand travserse (5.0 but very exposed) to either the crack below the aplite band (harder) or 10' further to the 'stance' and corner for an easier start. You'll need to protect for your 2nd and sling them really long. The hand traverse takes 1" to 2.5" or so.
Lead up the corner to the aplite band past the 3 pitons. If you want to back up the pitons, an orange alien works well.
Continue up ~25' above the aplite band slightly right to ridgeline. You can build a nice gear belay here. This is the 'optional' belay indicated in the supertopo.
Assuming you slung everything long (24"+), the rope drag is totally fine. You will need to watch the tension on your 2nd during the hand traverse of course.
Then you can continue to the top in a short pitch without rope drag.

Why did I do it this way? My 2nd didn't like the hand traverse w/o a belay and the anchor options where Supertopo indicates to build the zero belay are not great.