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 ADVANCED
Mt. Ritter
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North Face T 

North Face 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3000'
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: John Muir - October 1872
Season: Late Spring
Page Views: 3,214
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: North Face - Ritter

Description 

A route not to be taken lightly. You too can tread in the steps of John Muir.

From Ediza Lake follow a use trail towards Ritter and Banner Peak until you encounter the first snowfield (seasonal).

Reach second snowfield which lies above the bench by the path of least resistance, which lies to the right of the bench, somewhat below Banner Peak.

Climb up the second snowfield to a couloir which leads to the Ritter-Banner Saddle.

The third snowfield (had enough yet?) is followed to a ledge which leads into the righthand chute.

Climb up the chute - which is loose so beware - at its top traverse over onto the face which leads in steep steps finally to the summit (phew!).

Location 

Carefully descend the route.

Protection 

Ice-axe, crampons, helmet.


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
View from Ritter-Banner Saddle.
BETA PHOTO: View from Ritter-Banner Saddle.
Mt Ritter, north face.
Mt Ritter, north face.
Pre-dawn approach
Pre-dawn approach
Nearing top of Ritter/Banner saddle
Nearing top of Ritter/Banner saddle
Crossing the 2nd snowfield (after a detour)
Crossing the 2nd snowfield (after a detour)
Summit ridge, Mt Ritter.
Summit ridge, Mt Ritter.
Tony Tennessee at the Saddle
Tony Tennessee at the Saddle
Nearing top of Ritter/Banner saddle.
Nearing top of Ritter/Banner saddle.
Chris Owen crosses the 3rd snowfield - photo T.T.
Chris Owen crosses the 3rd snowfield - photo T.T.
Mt Ritter, north face.
Mt Ritter, north face.
On approach to Ritter/Banner.
On approach to Ritter/Banner.
Some class 4, Mt. Ritter, north face.
Some class 4, Mt. Ritter, north face.
Ritter/Banner saddle, from base.
Ritter/Banner saddle, from base.
Gorillaz on top.
Gorillaz on top.

Comments on North Face Add Comment
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By Davi Rivas
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 5, 2010
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

This is a great alpine climb! The route description on this page is 100% on; lots of snow/ice leading up to Ritter/Banner saddle and lots of loose rock in the chute. But still, this climb kicks ass!