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North Face

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Coup de Grace 
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Partners in Crime 
Too Biased 
West Lark 

North Face 

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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview.


This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems. The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. Itís best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.

During the summer, this face gets sun much of the day. In the Spring and Summer, it gets a lot of shade.

Getting There 

Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Face:
West Lark   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Northeast Face West   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Hard Lark   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
El Whampo   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Coup de Grace   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
Grace Slick   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in North Face

Featured Route For North Face
All smiles, Aaron starts the "tough" section of 'Too Biased' (5.9)

Too Biased 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : North Face
Pitch #1 (5.9) - Start approx 8 feet right of the Northeast Face (West) route, near a large pine. Climb the slab to the small left facing flake system (small pro, mostly nuts). As the flake runs out, move out onto a seam that trends slightly left and up. The first bolt is encountered 12 feet up past the top of the flake system. A green Alien works nicely at the top of the flake before casting off onto the seam. Follow out onto an open slab, passing three other bolts along the way. After ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For North Face
Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does not appear to get much traffic but is a fun climb.
Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does ...
After some balancy face moves off the belay, Nathan Fitzhugh on the fun liebacks of the second pitch of El Grandote.
After some balancy face moves off the belay, Natha...
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