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This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems. The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. Itís best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.
Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in North Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Face:
West Lark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Northeast Face West 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Hard Lark 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Northeast Face East 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
El Whampo 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Coup de Grace 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Grace Slick 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For North Face
Too Biased 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : North Face
Pitch #1 (5.9) - Start approx 8 feet right of the Northeast Face (West) route, near a large pine. Climb the slab to the small left facing flake system (small pro, mostly nuts). As the flake runs out, move out onto a seam that trends slightly left and up. The first bolt is encountered 12 feet up past the top of the flake system. A green Alien works nicely at the top of the flake before casting off onto the seam. Follow out onto an open slab, passing three other bolts along the way. After ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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