This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems. The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. It’s best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.
Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.
14 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in North Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Face:
West Lark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Northeast Face West 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Hard Lark 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Northeast Face East 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
El Whampo 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Coup de Grace 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Grace Slick 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For North Face
West Lark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : North Face
This is the most obvious of the three “Lark” climbs, and the least sustained. It follows well-defined crack systems. Start about ten feet to the left of the North Buttress and climb a crack for two pitches. Traverse a few feet right to another crack system and follow that for several pitches to its end. It becomes a prominent right-facing corner, with some well-protected small overhangs being the crux of the route. At the top of the crack system, continue up a chute to the top. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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