North Face  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet FA:  Larry & Roger Dalke Submitted By:  Bruce Pech on Jun 9, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Another Bell Buttress classic, North Face, photo: ...

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Description 

If you're crossing the creek to climb Hound Dog, pack some trad gear for a taste of "Dalke 5.9." The North Face begins at the Hound Dog belay and follows an unfortunately brushy, right-facing corner left to a pedestal facing an alcove. Climb a thin, clean crack up and out of the alcove to a face and a second alcove. Jamming and stemming through the second alcove is the crux. Belay on the ledge above. Either climb another short crack and finish on the second pitch of Cosmosis or traverse north along the ledge, down-climb insecure and exposed rock (belay advised) to the anchors on Freaks on a Leash, and rap back to the base of the route. SR. Save #6-9 Stoppers and small cams for the thin crack through the two alcoves. The North Face was rated 5.9 in the first edition of "High Over Boulder." Sport climbers may find it a little stiff for its currrent .10a rating.

Protection 

#5 RP - #2.5 Friend. Save #6-9 Stoppers and/or small cams for the upper crack.