North Face  5.10b

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  [1st lead - Don Peterson in 1972] Submitted By:  Chris R on Sep 18, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

I originally commented on this route in the "North Ridge" comments section, then I climbed the route again and decided it was worth its own description.

The line is pretty obvious--the North face of the White Spire is pretty narrow. The squeezed line goes up the incipient crack (finger pockets).

To access it, scramble on top of a detached boulder and cruise up the narrow pockets. The line gets the 5.10 grade only if you avoid the tempting jugs and good feet to the right--those are all part of the 5.7 North Ridge line. It is kind of slippery, in that the rock is comprised of tiny pebbles cemented together. It is fun enough and unique for The Garden.

Protection 

It can and has been led, but for my money, it is better as a TR. Placing good pro fills the only available finger pockets.