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White Twin
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North Face TR 
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North Face 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: [1st lead - Don Peterson in 1972]
Page Views: 1,006
Submitted By: Chris R on Sep 18, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Seasonal Closures - all are lifted - 10/25/14 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I originally commented on this route in the "North Ridge" comments section, then I climbed the route again and decided it was worth its own description.

The line is pretty obvious--the North face of the White Spire is pretty narrow. The squeezed line goes up the incipient crack (finger pockets).

To access it, scramble on top of a detached boulder and cruise up the narrow pockets. The line gets the 5.10 grade only if you avoid the tempting jugs and good feet to the right--those are all part of the 5.7 North Ridge line. It is kind of slippery, in that the rock is comprised of tiny pebbles cemented together. It is fun enough and unique for The Garden.

Protection 

It can and has been led, but for my money, it is better as a TR. Placing good pro fills the only available finger pockets.


Comments on North Face Add Comment
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By Stewart M. Green
Aug 2, 2004

First lead ascent was by Don Peterson in 1972, followed by Helmut Hussman and Stewart Green. It's best top-roped....
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 12, 2008

Another fun variation is to lay-back off the left arete, just left of the crack/seam/piton scars. The lower down you try to start this, the more difficult. Again, good to TR.
By Craig Nelson
From: sioux city, iowa
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Lead it. come on.
By iceman777
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 9, 2012

Yes lead it, hell I have witnessed a climber SOLO IT !