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Navajo Peak
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Dicker's Peck T 
North Face T 
North Face of Dicker's Peck T 
West Couloir 

North Face 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,304
Submitted By: Brendan Sheehan on Jun 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The North Face Route goes to the left of the promi...

Description 

From the notch north of Navajo, (see Dicker's Peck for details) you can climb up Navajo's north face instead of using the scrambling route on the peaks west side. (called west chimney) Head straight up easy rock for 100-200 feet. This is class 4 - 5.0 and may not need a rope. Next climb an easy pitch (5.4 max) up towards the tan colored summit cliffs. Some scrambling takes you under the west side of the summit cliffs, and you have now rejoined the West Chimney scrambling route. An optional second pitch goes up an easy crack in the summit cliff (5.4) and goes right (piton) to avoid a large obstruction/overhang. The summit is then a short scramble away. To decend scramble sw then either [descend] the West Chimney route back to the Dicker's Peck notch or scramble down to the east to Airplane gully. As a mountaineering route it's two stars, but the technical climbing only gets one.


Protection 

Easily protected with mid-sized gear.



Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Aaron and Rob ascending the final few hundred feet of the Navajo snowfield with Long's and Meeker far in the distance.
Aaron and Rob ascending the final few hundred feet...
Following the first rock pitch from the saddle.
Following the first rock pitch from the saddle.
View of the cirque from Long Lake.  Navajo Snowfield on the right
View of the cirque from Long Lake. Navajo Snowfie...
Tracy traverses the last stretch of Navajo's snowfield.
Tracy traverses the last stretch of Navajo's snowf...
looking up the North Face from Dicker's Peck.  Not a good day to climb.
BETA PHOTO: looking up the North Face from Dicker's Peck. Not...
The final crack heading toward the summit (protects well with nuts). Don't remember seeing the piton referenced in the route description.
BETA PHOTO: The final crack heading toward the summit (protect...
Comments on North Face Add Comment
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By Kevin Craig
Jun 25, 2002

Roach rates the route at 5.2 and I'd agree. From the saddle, climb easy ground to the steep wall and ramp that leads up to the right. Follow the ramp to either a tan dihedral (5.3'ish with an awkward move at the top) or the "improbable and exposed stance" mentioned by Roach and a steep, 10 foot high 5.2 crack. Great route!

By Brendan Sheehan
Jun 25, 2002

Roach rates it 5.0-5.2, but discusses a 5.7 variation ( which I couldn't find ) And a 5.3-5.4 variation through the summit cliff, which I included in my description, so that's how I arived at 5.4.

By Erik Corkran
Jun 26, 2002

When I did this a while back, we stumbled on some variation around 5.6 or so. Went up the face for two pitches, the first long and about 5.5, the second shorter but steeper, 5.6. Neither had very good gear. Dropped us off right near the summit (found a short crack to scramble up around there somewhere). I think we did not follow the ramp that the normal route follows. There was quite a bit of snow around so it was hard to pick out this ramp at the time.

Was a while back so don't remember exact details. Tried to estimate grade as accurately as possible, but we were half-frozen and climbing in boots so it could be off either way.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2003

The way we did it was up onto the N. Face, but tending left instead of right to a white granite/quartz band in a corner. A few reasonably protectable moves of 5.5(?) got us up a obtuse corner, stepping left at it's cap, and reaching a low angle loose section to access the ridge.I hazard a guess at the grade- it felt harder due to soloing with a pack and unusual footwear, but then I tried to downgrade to account for that. It was in the 5.3-5.6 range though.

By Tim Silvers
Jul 19, 2004

7/17/04 - planned to do Dicker's Peck and Navajo N Face, but bailed after climbing half of the Peck due to whiteout, wind and cold conditions. Just in time as T-storms and rain came down about 30 min later. Snowfield is well consolidated with parallel grooves of surface ice where meltwater has frozen. Surface was fairly good for crampons but too hard to kick deep steps. We glissaded down, trying to stay off the icy spots. I don't recommend this! It was tough to keep a slow speed and sometimes took 30 feet to stop via self arrest! Email me at silverbrothers@cs.com if you have any ????