This is the shortest downclimb off Hillbilly Rock, but it is harder than some of the routes on the East Face! The crux is only about 15' long, but it is quite steep and exposed and can be scary to downclimb.
Begin on the north side of the rock below the summit. A weakness or trough can be seen diagonaling right below a major roof, this is the route. Climb up dirty ledges past some trees to the start of the crux section. There are some pretty large holds through the crux, but there are several large blocks that appear loose - fortunately they all seem to be quite solid. After the crux, wander south on a ledge and easily reach the summit from the west. Downclimb the route or rap 60' north from the top. The rap should end pretty much at the base of the route.
If you're downclimbing this route, recognize the start of the hard section by a suitcase-sized block which is jammed in a 3 foot wide crack. Lower yourself down off big holds on this block.
Light rack, but you may find use for a 3-4" piece.
|By Warren Teissier|
Jun 18, 2002
There is an easier 4th class downclimb off of Hillbilly.
Downclimb the East face on its North side from the summit for about 100 ft. As you reach a large flake/ledge, a break to the right (North) allows passage down.
Downclimb the step and follow the ramp downward (East) for some 10 licheny ft. past a small tree. From there, move into the next parallel ramp and continue down some 10 feet until you can step down onto a large, fallen tree. Follow the tree to the ground.
This is easy climbing but a bit exposed and dirty.
|By shad O'Neel|
Apr 29, 2003
I'm glad to see that this isn't listed as 4th class as it is in Rossiter's book. That is pretty misleading beta as this is a slimy, bulgy climb (downclimb) with suspect blocks. I climbed up and down it before starting up the E face routes, just to avoid unpleasant surprises.