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North Face route is actually the crack on the west...
This route is just right (as seen from below) of the rappel. Its first 25 feet ascend a broken, nearly overhanging section below a crack. After that, you move into a fist wide crack that quickly expands into offwidth.
The crux comes some 40 feet off the ground and involves climbing and mostly exiting some 10 feet of offwidth onto the ledge just below the summit blocks.
Descent - rappel North from slings. Bring a 10 foot sling.
You will need a couple of large pieces to protect the offwidth crux at the top of the pitch.
Assuming the North Face route is on the West Face,...
|By Dave J|
May 27, 2007
I was up there yesterday, and I am confused. The route says north face, but the description on here says a crack to the right of the rappel line, which is on the west face. The only crack I saw was on the west face, near the northwest corner. There was a small rib that stuck up and you could walk on it to reach across the gap to the crack. You pulled over a small overhang then followed the crack to the rappel ledge. There wasn't really an offwidth so much as a low-angled slot that took thin-hands gear in the back of it. Also, the crack reached down through the overhang, which made for a difficult V4 sit start variation. Does this sound like the right route? The line is obvious, is the right length, and vaguely fits the north face description, except it's on the west face, and I did not find any route on the north face. Thanks for the help.
|By Mark Roth|
Oct 18, 2009
Jason Haas' new book describes this as that crack on the west face (seen in my photo on the right), but it could possibly be the crack on the North face that ends just left of the summit block on a ledge (behind the tree in the photo). The north face crack didn't look much fun, but the west face one is appealing, but short.... Looks like I rapped from the wrong place??