P1: Start up a 5.7 flake that is laden with large dikes. Climb up to the white bowl and belay here on three fixed pins.
P2: Continue up the prominent right-leaning crack that is a lot harder than it looks. The pro is good and abundant. Tight finger locks on a steep wall with no feet bring you through the crux. Belay at the small ledge just under the roof on two good bolt anchors.
P3: Continue straight up over a horrible-looking roof which is not as bad as it looks or go out right for a slightly harder variation with two closely spaced bolts for pro. Once over the roof, move out left up a series of cracks littered with fixed pins. Follow these cracks up the wildly exposed 5.9 face on large dikes and hand jams up to a large grass-filled ledge and belay there.
P4: Now continue up and left over some less-than-traveled rock; any number of ways (all about 5.6) to the top. Good stuff.
LOCATION: Starts just left of Stem Mister and Right of Power Lust. For add'l information see the Beta Picture herein
Cams .5"-4" Nuts 1 set
BETA PHOTO: Information on getting to an Alcove where you can ...
From: Oakland CA
Sep 4, 2007
Just did the first two pitches, but they were really good! P1 was a steep dikey 5.7 that was pretty fun, this would be a good alternative to a busy corrugation corner. You can rap from the top with two single rope raps, down to Stemmeister anchor and then to main ledge.
Followed p2, that is one outstanding pitch. relentless with great climbing and few true rests, good gear and some powerful moves. The roof start to p3 looked airy and scary!
|By John Robinson|
From: Elk Grove, ca
Sep 27, 2010
The second pitch of this route and others (Absolutely Brilliant, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face), and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along.
Jul 22, 2011
Only did the first two pitches. The second pitch was hard, the feet disappear halfway up and the finger locks are difficult. But the true difficulty is the pitch's sustained nature. There is a large block at the top of the pitch that is about to come loose. Be careful with it.
The third pitch looked hard, with lots of moss in the initial crack. We rapped from the top of 2.