This route goes through the overhanging headwall 1/2 way up the Dicker's Peck instead of traversing around it as for the standard Route. This seemed 5.9 at the time, but that is compensating up and down to account for the footwear and lack of footwork used... On lead, I campused the headwall completely, statically hanging to check each hold before hauling on it, as there was a runout and a ledge... Peter was able to haul up a foot (hiking boot) and place it high for leverage, so obviously this was not necessary. Still, the juggy nature of the route gives itself to such climbing and is more direct a route.
Start as for the Standard Route.
A standard rack with a few pieces fiddleed in here and there- a little sparse for gear, but not too bad.
Feb 5, 2009
I did this variation June of '05, OS FS @ 5.8.
I do not believe it was the first, because I was told about climbing through the bulge before my ascent. I wore technical mtn boots and had no chalk.
Feb 5, 2009
I have done this route back in June '05 OS FS @ 5.8. I was told about this route, so I don't think I was the FA.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 14, 2014
Well, that makes some sense, as we did it in 7/2003, and we talked about it. But sure, it may have done prior to then, I was surprised it was not published, nor seemingly traveled.