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Lone Eagle Peak
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North Face Direct 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1050', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: September
Page Views: 1,123
Submitted By: SashaSorkin on Oct 18, 2009
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After climbing the overhang (P3).

Description 

Moshnikov Anatoly
Moshnikov Ivan
Mountain Guides, CET Neva, St. Petersburg, Russia

North Face direct variant.
09/09/09 From Crater Lake - ~ vertical 1050 ft.

P1. 5.4. Climb first pitch of the Classic North face route (75 ft) to the bench with the trees.

P2. Scramble right and up on the ramp with trees for about 100 ft m and then climb up under small roof. (Just before the overhang we found remains of the repel station).

P3. 5.10. Crux. Make a delicate move into the crack under the roof and work over the overhang.

P4 and 5. Climb straight up (P4) and another pitch (P5) up and left (easy climbing, 5.5-5.6) to the large ledge below the summit bastion.

P6. Join with the crux pitch of the classic route (P5, 170 ft, 5.7).

P7. Continue on the classic route 100 ft to the summit.

Time from Crater Lake to summit - 5.5 hrs.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of North Face Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Scheme of the routes on the North face.
BETA PHOTO: Scheme of the routes on the North face.
Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.
Pitch 5.
Pitch 5.
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