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North Face Direct
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British Easy Snow R
Avg: 1 from 2
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Routes in Freedom Peak
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North Face Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow R |
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Regular North Face Route 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Tristan Higbee, Chris Sorensen, July 16, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,395 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tristan Higbee on Jul 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
The first pitch is the crux and provides the only real technical climbing on the route. Climb up fun, hard-to-protect choss for a good rope length, weaving left and right to avoid some steeper, chossier sections. I left a knifeblade in a horizontal crack before one of the roofs. After topping out, walk right a few feet and belay there. A small angle piton was left fixed.
None of the pitches after the first require technical gear... and the first pitch could even be avoided by going up the snow gully to the left or scrambling up easier rock to the right.
From the belay, unrope (stashing your rock gear would probably be a good idea, too) and walk up (west) the ridge until you see the low-angled 4th class rock as marked in the topo pic. Carefully cross the snowy gully and climb several hundred vertical feet of rock that gets easier the closer you get to the top. The actual summit of the peak is a 5 minute scramble to the south.
None of the pitches after the first require technical gear... and the first pitch could even be avoided by going up the snow gully to the left or scrambling up easier rock to the right.
From the belay, unrope (stashing your rock gear would probably be a good idea, too) and walk up (west) the ridge until you see the low-angled 4th class rock as marked in the topo pic. Carefully cross the snowy gully and climb several hundred vertical feet of rock that gets easier the closer you get to the top. The actual summit of the peak is a 5 minute scramble to the south.
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