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Pacific Peak
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North Face Couloirs T 

North Face Couloirs 

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,698
Submitted By: Julian Smith on May 19, 2002

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Ripping a turn lower down with slough in the backg...

Description 

From the bottom of the north face, locate a couloir that bisects the face on the right hand side, and goes up to the west ridge. Climb this couloir. The best variation is to take the left hand split, about half way up, just past a large rock tower on the right. The left hand couloir necks down and gets a little bit steeper (65 to 70 degrees) before finishing just below the summit. Alternately, climb straight up the couloir to the west ridge and scramble up to the summit. Descend as for Pacific Peak, down the east ridge. Overall, either couloir is probably about 1000 feet long.

This route is in condition, probably most of the year. Beware of serious cornices on the west ridge above the route. Stone fall is also present as well. In spring, this is primarily a snow climb. By late summer, the left-hand couloir will melt out, necessitating some easy 5th class climbing on the side.

Protection 

This is primarily a snow and ice climb, but there is plenty of potential for rock gear along the sides of the couloir. Maybe take a small rack of gear and a couple of ice screws.


Photos of North Face Couloirs Slideshow Add Photo
From a distance, Pacific Peak.
From a distance, Pacific Peak.
Looking down from the top of the couloir
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of the couloir
My usual view of George Barnes. High up on Pacific Peak.
My usual view of George Barnes. High up on Pacific...
Heading up into the meat of the couloir.
Heading up into the meat of the couloir.
David standing atop the crux choke wondering how to get through.
David standing atop the crux choke wondering how t...
Looking down past the crux.
Looking down past the crux.
High on life.
High on life.
From the top of the couloir.
From the top of the couloir.
The Marlboro Man on the summit.
The Marlboro Man on the summit.
this is the day luca brasi speaks of. <br />he is on the summit as I am contemplating pure insanity in the notch above the couloir which was about 1 foot wide(and a couple feet deep) for about 5-15 feet.
this is the day luca brasi speaks of. he is on the...
My friend David decided to rap over the 3-5 ft cornice on top.
My friend David decided to rap over the 3-5 ft cor...
Yep, not a go this year.
Yep, not a go this year.
Climbing the last section.
Climbing the last section.
Another view.
Another view.
Pacific Peak.
Pacific Peak.
Dropping into the North Couloir of Pacific Peak, April 19 '08.
Dropping into the North Couloir of Pacific Peak, A...
Paul Wellner on Pacific Peak. Lovin' Colorado!!!!
Paul Wellner on Pacific Peak. Lovin' Colorado!!!!
1 turn below the last photo past the crux which was quite a bit less then 160 cm! It was a squeeze to say the least.
1 turn below the last photo past the crux which wa...
A good view of the unnerving cornice we climbed under for the first part of the climb. 6-28-2008.
A good view of the unnerving cornice we climbed un...

Comments on North Face Couloirs Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
May 29, 2002

Is this route in the middle of flavor country?
By Cory Cleveland
From: Missoula, MT
Jul 1, 2005

Climbed this couloir (the "left" branch) on 6/24/05. The lower route was in good shape, but the upper steep section had melted out within the last few days. This made for some spicy climbing on junky "ice" and unconsolidated mud. Very little opportunity for solid pro in rock on this route.

All that said, it is a cool route, and could be really cool with just a bit more snow.

We descended via the SE ridge and glissaded a couloir back to Upper Mohawk Lakes for a cool loop.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
May 14, 2008

Classic! I'm claiming the first snowboard descent down the north couloir. As far as I know, my friend David is the third skier to ski it top to bottom. I tried last year mid May, and it was too thin and melted out but on April 19 this year it was good to go!
By MikeS
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2008

Found fixed line from top of couloir down through bottom of crux. Perfect for rapping through steep and narrow choke (65deg,narrower than your skis) Double check security as I relocated it from some melt/freeze chossiness.
Nice snow.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jun 2, 2008

Really? When we went through I just hand lined over the cornice and my partner rapped in and put his skis on, both of us got through the crux on our own. My partner could not retrieve the rope so he left it, but it didn't go through the crux.
By Drew Gibson
From: Frisco, CO
Jul 25, 2009

We skied this in May as part of a Range enchainment There was no cornice. The wind had blown in some fluff and it was about boot top deep. Absolutely epic. I was back there 4 days ago with the girlfriend and it's firm snow with 4 decent patches of ice. Could get even better with the cold temps at night up high. Easily solo-able, weaker climbers will want a rope. The ice is to thin for screws, I took a few small nuts. A KB or two could have been useful.
By jjjust
Jan 2, 2012

Pacific Peak.