North Face Center (Ecclesiastes)
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Climb up the middle of the North Face via obvious right facing corners and flake systems to the bowl.
Start under an arch near the bottom of the face a trend up and left heading for the corners above. Climb the corners for 3 or 4 pitches (some large gear is nice).
From the bowl good route finding will allow you to reach the summit with few difficulties.
Walk off to the Southwest.
pro to 4"
|Photos of North Face Center (Ecclesiastes) Slideshow
An old photo of the face form 1980s
Multiple pitches of liebacking midroute
|Comments on North Face Center (Ecclesiastes)
Apr 9, 2008
The corner discribed above is more of a giant flake. I felt that getting to this flake was the crux of the climb. Once in it you are led straight up to the bowl. I didin't feel that any pitch was harder than any other once you are climbing the main feature.
Mar 1, 2010
We didn't have any large gear, since it didn't exist ... I think all we had was stoppers and hexes.
It was barely my second season of leading, and I was very inexperienced. Dorworth pointed to where I was to go and sent me up .... I borrowed someone's parka, which was lucky since we got caught in a huge thunderstorm in the dark, at the summit.
Aug 21, 2012
I thought the climbing on this route was better than the Northeast Face of Pingora for basically the same grade. The 5.9 is one well protected wide lieback section. This is how we did the route, route finding was straight forward in my opinion
Pitch 1: Find a detached pillar at far right of the overhangs, climb left side of pillar and traverse over to roof. Pull the roof and climb a wide ugly grass filled crack to a nice ledge (5.7)
Pitch 2: Head straight up on easy terrain to another roof with a crack shooting left, pull roof and follow nice finger crack left to a belay on top of a pillar (5.8)
Pitch 3: Head straight up a right facing dihedral to the apex and pull roof to the left, follow left leaning crack /groove to a belay at a mess of slings around a pillar (5.8)
Pitch 4: Head out and left around pillar to enter the obvious crack/flake system above, follow really fun flakes to a wide lieback crux (#4 nice but not essential), belay directly above on a ledge. Long pitch (5.9)
Pitch 5: Follow corner/flakes up through an easy chimney section and belay shortly after on a grass ledge. Another long pitch (5.7)
Pitch 6: Follow flakes up and right, as the flake system arches into a roof and the rock gets a bit rotten, step out right onto the face and follow great holds up and round the roof to 4th class terrain into the upper bowl. Run the rope out to a belay (5.8)
Pitch 7: Climb up an obvious trough/chimney on the left side of the bowl a full rope length to a ledge below the fang of rock (5.4)
Pitch 8: Climb up steep delicate flakes out the roof into 4th class terrain and belay when comfortable (5.6)
Descent: Scramble up and left for a good ways crossing an exposed notch to the plateau below the true summit. Head down grassy slopes towards North Lake until you can see the shoulder of the southwest slopes up to your right. Head up a couple hundred vertical feet to the shoulder and then descent directly to Jackass Pass on easy grassy slopes.
Rack: nuts, and doubles from fingers to #3 and a single #4
Sep 15, 2013
I think one can easily climb this without the #3 or #4 - I wouldn't want to carry in the big heavy gear!
We had no Cams in 1972, climbed the route using stoppers and hexes, and neither of us were super climbers, certainly not in 1972!