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> Mt Gimli
North Face Arete
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Mount Gimli
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Another Dimension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dark Side of the Moon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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East Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Kristiansen-Croston T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Kristiansen-Croston (Direct Start) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Lusting After Women T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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North Face Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rumble in the Jungle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sailor Jerry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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South Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Space Jam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1 PG13 |
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Valhalla Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | JT Croston and Nick Seymour |
| Page Views: | 968 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | JT Croston on Sep 16, 2014 |
| Admins: | Rukas Fodor, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Description
First pitch 5.7 - follow low angle rock to grassy ledge and climb up obvious corner below main arete. Semi-hanging belay below small roof (30m). Second pitch 5.9 - squeeze through roof chimney and continue up corner to nice belay below big roof/steep section (25m). Pitch 3 5.10 a/b - Climb easy line through the roof and continue past another small roof to a steep crack at the base of the arete; step right to bolted belay (40m). Pitch 4 5.10 - step right of arete onto face and through obvious crack to steep shallow flaring face/corner cracks (crux 1) to a belay just below a single bolt (30m). Note the belay is small gear and nuts so the bolt could make part of the anchor. Pitch 5 5.10 - continue up the face crack through a steep corner crack and two more bolts, past a small roof (crux 2) to easy ground and the summit (50 m - avoid rope drag by extenders on cams placed into the roof).
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