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North Face & Northwest Corner
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Dreaming 
Call Evita 911 
Doldrums 
Fourplay 
Friend of the Devil 
Klondike 
Leaping Lizards 
McCarthy's North Face 
Mystic and the Mulchers 
Psychic Turbulance 
Sleight of Hand 
Spiney Norman 
Whine and Bruises 

North Face & Northwest Corner 


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Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Mark M. on Aug 16, 2002

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

North Face of Devils Tower is temporarily closed for falcons, AND has a voluntary closure each June. MORE INFO >>>


Bret is entering the fun face section on Klondike.

Description 

The North Face of the tower is the place to be to find shade on hot summer days and is the home to some classic routes with the gem being McCarthy North Face. Most routes in this area are 2 pitches of good climbing with rap bolts, although there are a few that continue to the summit which makes for one of the longest ways to get up the tower.

The North Face / NW Shoulder approach described below will put you near the start of McCarthy's, from this point (with a little effort) you can reach routes all the way to Casper College to the east and One Way Sunset to the west. In short, head up here and you are position for a day of stellar climbing!


Getting There 

To reach the North Face form the parking lot head left on the paved trail past the west face. At it's farthest north point the trail will make a sharp right turn, just after this you will reach a bench on the opposite side of the trail. Look for a trail here that heads south east through the forest and follow it up to the rock. If you get lost in the woods look up and head for the tall rock pillar in front of you. Watch for Poison Ivy.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Face & Northwest Corner:
Doldrums   C2+     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 115 feet, Grade II   
Mystic and the Mulchers   5.8-     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Friend of the Devil   5.8 A3-     Aid, 1 pitch, 170 feet   
Call Evita 911   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 155 feet   
Klondike   5.10a R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200 feet   
Leaping Lizards   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet   
McCarthy's North Face   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III   
California Dreaming   5.11b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Psychic Turbulance   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet   
Fourplay   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   
Spiney Norman   5.11c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   
Whine and Bruises   5.12b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in North Face & Northwest Corner

Featured Route For North Face & Northwest Corner
A 5 Star Beauty...The route that is !!! Psycho Turb. is a Super Stemmer !!!!

Psychic Turbulance 5.11b  WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn...
Located 100 or so feet left of Carol's Crack on the north end of the west face. Felt like El Matador's big brother: technical stemming on lichen with no rests unless you have Lance Armstrong's calves....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY