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Cactus Flower Tower summit
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North Face - Cactus Flower Tower 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA: Karsten Duncan, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,422
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 25, 2008

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The storm did make for some impressive views.

Description 

Scramble a long way up the approach gully near Ramen Pride, generally bearing to the right. When you reach the crest of the main buttress, climb up on varied 5th class rock for several pitches. Eventually you come out on a broad wooded ledge beneath the main headwall. Climb a right-facing ramp system behind a large, gnarled pine tree. The second headwall pitch climbs a crack system directly above a second big pine. When the cracks peter out, wander up and right to the summit.

An alternative start bypasses a few of the broken lower pitches. Scramble up to the base of the Blood Wall, then continue up and left (east). This is mostly class 2 with one fifth class spot. You join the longer route one pitch beneath the wooded ledge system.

Descent: this route ends at the Cactus Flower Tower summit, so follow the standard descent along the west ridge.

Location 

This route is best accessed from Oak Creek.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of North Face - Cactus Flower Tower Slideshow Add Photo
On the FRA, a storm caught us just below the top.
On the FRA, a storm caught us just below the top.
Third headwall pitch.
Third headwall pitch.
One pitch below the wooded ledge and headwall.  Th...
One pitch below the wooded ledge and headwall. Th...
The Cactus Flower Tower north face route from the ...
BETA PHOTO: The Cactus Flower Tower north face route from the ...
The first headwall pitch.
The first headwall pitch.
Lots of bushwhacking and third class in the easter...
Lots of bushwhacking and third class in the easter...
Another view of the north face of Cactus Flower To...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the north face of Cactus Flower To...
Looking down the second headwall pitch/
Looking down the second headwall pitch/
Good ledge just before the summit.
Good ledge just before the summit.
Third headwall pitch.
Third headwall pitch.
The second headwall pitch starts next to an intere...
The second headwall pitch starts next to an intere...
Close-up view of interesting pine tree growing aro...
Close-up view of interesting pine tree growing aro...
Higher on the second headwall pitch.
Higher on the second headwall pitch.
The summit pitch.
The summit pitch.

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