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 ADVANCED
North End

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Argonaut , The TR 
Awakening Spirits T 
Bat Attack T,S 
Boogie Till ya Puke T 
ByPass T 
Death Wish T 
Enduro Man Rides Again T 
Filet-O-Fish T 
Indecent Exposure T 
Indian Head Direct T 
indian toe T 
Joy Loader T 
Juggerhead T 
Juggernaut T 
Lark's Tongue T 
Middle Road S 
Mighty Mouse T 
Nevermore T 
Nevermore (The other one) T 
Nicotine T,S 
Nutsweat T 
Rastafari T 
Reckless Abandon T 
Reckless Abandon Direct T 
Recommendation, The S 
Shadowdance T 
Shamans T 
Spice T 
Superman's Dead T 
Survival Of The Fittest T 
Unknown T 
Vascular Disaster T 
Visual Splendor T 
War Games T 
Windigo T 
X-Games T 

North End  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Williams on Nov 3, 2011
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Fun on Shadowdance circa 1996. Climber Julian Smit...

Description 

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Getting There 

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Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

36 Total Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',12],['5.12',9],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North End:
Nevermore   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Juggerhead   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Nutsweat   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Juggernaut   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Joy Loader   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Indian Head Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Death Wish   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
Reckless Abandon   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Nevermore (The other one)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Spice   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Vascular Disaster   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Shadowdance   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Mighty Mouse   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Enduro Man Rides Again   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Filet-O-Fish   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bat Attack   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Recommendation   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Boogie Till ya Puke   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Middle Road   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Nicotine   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in North End

Featured Route For North End
View up at the traverse to the finish from the gre...

Nutsweat 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  NC : Moore's Wall : North End
The guidebook lists this as two pitches, but I think that would be a really silly way to climb this. Long runners at the very beginning keep rope drag nonexistent. Start on the ledge that Nutsweat, Death Wish, and Reckless abandon all begin on. Negotiate a short crack/weakness through a bulge, when you pop up over this head up and left through a beautiful green corner. Near the top traverse left into a right facing corner (crux). Continue traversing left out the stupendous overhangs towards...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

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