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North East Gully
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British PG13
Avg: 0.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Der Freischutz
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Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Fat Elvis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Free Shot T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 696 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Rick Blair on May 26, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Description
Route finding errors lead me to a dirty gully full of friable rock, poor protection options, pine needles, lichen, overall a screaming choss pile, possibly the worst I have ever climbed. I had 2 holds break off in my hands. The climbing eases up after 40 meters to 4th/easy 5th class. The good parts of this climb were when I hit one of the main routes.
I joined the south ridge after the 1st belay which was pleasant 3rd-4th class.
The highlight is the 5.4 downclimb, fun and is easy for an experienced climber. Follow the obvious path until it appears to cliff out, grab some bomber holds above the V-slot ramp, and dangle your feet. You will find huge foot holds. Once on the ramp, easy chimney moves will get you down and a fall from here (slide really) would be inconsequential.
I joined the south ridge after the 1st belay which was pleasant 3rd-4th class.
The highlight is the 5.4 downclimb, fun and is easy for an experienced climber. Follow the obvious path until it appears to cliff out, grab some bomber holds above the V-slot ramp, and dangle your feet. You will find huge foot holds. Once on the ramp, easy chimney moves will get you down and a fall from here (slide really) would be inconsequential.
Location
At the start of the east face routes, head up the trail 100 feet or so. Look for a slung tree about 30 feet up with a rap ring and dirty old piece of tat. If you are willing to run it out to that tree on manky rock, you are ready for this chossfest.
Protection
There are not many good protection options on the first pitch. I made good use of some finger-sized nuts and tricams. The cracks that look from the ground like they would have good cam placements are in expanding rock or they are full of the dark red sandstone that falls apart. I got 4 pieces in on the first 200 foot pitch including a slung tree. I ran a full 60 meters of rope out to a tree sitting inside a giant hueco that would fit 10 people. You don't get much better belay stances than this.
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