North East Face, Regular Route
|Type: ||Trad, Ice, Snow, 5 pitches, 3100', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b WI2 [details]|
|FA: ||? 1960's|
|Season: ||Winter, early Spring|
|Page Views: ||2,532|
|Submitted By: ||bsmoot on Jan 10, 2008|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Jonathan Smoot in the upper gully.
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This was a popular alpine jaunt in the 70's for aspiring alpinists . The climbing is quite moderate, and if you're confident you won't need to rope up much. If you climb this in the dead of winter, plan on a FULL DAY, because of deep snow in places. If you can time it during a cold spell in early Spring, you'll be front-pointing up the frozen snow, then you could summit before noon...these are ideal conditions and the climbing is CLASSIC!
From Stairs gulch, ascend steep snow gullies, mixed with ice and rock for 2,500' to a notch leading to the upper face. Ascend the face for 5 or 6 pitches to the summit (9,524'). If you're not tired yet, you can follow the S.E. Ridge to the summit of Twin Peaks.
Warning: Beware of avalanche danger form Stairs Gulch
Ascends mostly steep snow couloirs left of the prominent right facing corner high on the face. Begin by hiking up Stairs Gulch. Follow gullies and the face near the top to the summit. Descend from the top by hiking South East a bit and then down a steep gully into Stairs Gulch.
Small rack, runners, 1 screw.
May 13, 2010
Attempted to solo this on April 10 and was turned back at that prominent right-facing corner. I got up to 8600' or so completely on steep snow, up to 60 degrees. The corner would've been dry tooling/cramponing 5.6 sans rope, which was a little too spicy for me. A traverse around left to an adjacent gully led to three feet of sugar on quartzite -- upward progress became impossible so I bailed. Next time I'll bring a partner and/or rock shoes..