|The Dead Snag
This climb starts just around the corner to the right of Steort's Ridge and under the roof.
The climb follows the right side (north face)of Steorts Arete, climbing in the obvious dihedrals up faces and corners. In the Ruckman guidebook it shows 4 pitches, however, this depends on your rope length and comfort setting up belays. We climbed this in three. I don't recall each belay, however the first 3/4 of the climb is 5.5, with the last moves of the climb being the crux. You finish on the same ledge as Steort's Ridge.
The climb is a bit dirty and loose in spots, but it is worth climbing. There are definitely good sections of climbing. We ended up here because Steort's had a line, and it seemed like a good place to take a beginner. It was. If there are people on Steort's you will be climbing just to the right of them the whole way. It is a fun variation.
Standard trad rack
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the variations of the North Dihedr...
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
There are some nice harder variations on this one. All are short, but some may be as hard as 5.8 or 5.9. One in particular is a beautiful hand and finger crack in the steep left face somewhere around the second pitch.
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Bobby is absolutely right about the 5.8 hand and finger crack in the middle of the route. It is reminiscent of Goodro's Wall, only not as steep. I was unable to pass it up. Just after the first belay, there is a steep crack with two rusty pins that offer a more interesting and challenging alternative.
May 7, 2009
Not sure we did it the same way as pictured, but the moves from the first belay up and around the corner are stellar. Basically the climb is great except the first pitch, though the whole thing is not sustained at all. Still good fun.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Mar 31, 2010
I have done the fun crack on the left wall, but we accessed it from steort's then traversed back onto steorts for the last pitch. Many fun variations on that arete!
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 1, 2011
Climbed this route just yesturday. Yet another variation to the final pitch, (unless this is woely off route), is to stay on easy rock to the right instead of heading out onto the face. (I was afraid; I must admit it.) This brings you to a roof problem that is easy to protect, even if a little hard to pull.
This variation keeps the whole climb at 5.5, except for the roof pull, which I did extremely ungracefully. I did a pull-up to a mantel, snagging all my gear on the lip of the roof as I struggled in a belly flop to get my feet to the top. My second, Jason, somehow used his feet through the whole move, making the roof pull look real easy. For me it was a life or death struggle to the top. I suck.