This is a great climb. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of the east face route on Spire Two. Then, when at the saddle between Spire Two and Balcony Point, climb up to the obvious beautiful splitter crack that goes almost to the summit of Balcony Point. Climb this, the hardest move being pulling through a bulgy crack to the top of the pillar.
Standard Rack. The 3rd pitch is a perfect crack that eats up gear.
Looking back to the cozy belay at the end of the p...
Jeff J. conquers the Balcony Point crux
BETA PHOTO: Jeff J. places gear in the crack before starting t...
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What a great finish after climbing Spire 2. This is definitely a repeater...next time I plan on getting over the bulge without using my knee..haha
|By Brent Kertzman|
From: Black Hills, SD
Dec 18, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Great route... Great position... Great Fun! If Classic Crack on Inner Outlet and the Doody Direct on the Gnomon are 5.8 then this route is 5.8. Beware of the awkward stance at the new anchors.
|By Jeff J.|
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Sep 6, 2011
I agree about the anchor comment. I decided to build a gear anchor back in the cracks of the summit and it worked very well. I think belaying off the chains might send the 2nd into a swing if they fall.