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North Cliffband

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back to Montana 
Cochiti Classic 
Cochiti Ugly 
Empty and Meaningless 
Feminist Men 
Grunge Up the Munge 
Gunning for the Buddha 
Holy Wars 
La Espina 
Laurel's Climb 
Monkey Lust 
Montana Deviate 
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride 
Napoleon Blown-Apart 
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) 
Pickpocket 
Praise the Lunge 
Thief Crack 
Thief in Time 
To Catch A Thief 
Touch Monkey 
Unknown 
Unknown - Boulder Left 

North Cliffband 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: North Cliffband Overview

Description 

This is the section of cliff to the NW from the downclimb. There are roughly 25 excellent, though short routes. This is the most convenient crag at Cochiti, where it is easy to setup TRs on many routes, there is a nice 'scene' at the cliff base, shade trees, and a good diversity of grades is available.


Getting There 

From the downclimb, head NW.


Climbs (Right to Left) 

Napoleon Blown-Apart (5.11b)
Grunge Up the Munge (5.9+ crack)
Proctologist's Fantasy (5.12b)
Praise the Lunge (5.11c)
Unknown Parallel Cracks (11a/b crack)
Gunning for the Buddha (5.12b)
Lainbo (5.12b)
Montana Deviate (5.9+)
Holy Wars (5.11a)
Back to Montana (5.11c/d)
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride (5.11- crack)
Touch Monkey (5.13a)
Digital Pleasures (5.12b)
Empty and Meaningless (5.12b)
Feminist Men (5.12a) - begins on top of giant boulder
Monkey Lust (5.10a) - begins on top of giant boulder
Laurel's Climb (5.6) - giant boulder
Unknown - Boulder Left (5.9) - giant boulder
Cochiti Classic (5.10 crack)
La Espina (5.12a)
Cochiti Ugly (5.10 crack)
Thief in Time (5.12a)
Thief Crack (5.8 crack)
To Catch A Thief (5.11b/c)
Unknown (5.10a)
Pickpocket (5.11c)
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) (5.11b/c)
Unknown (5.??)


23 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Cliffband:
Thief Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Monkey Lust   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Praise the Lunge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
La Espina   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, TR, 70'   
Thief in Time   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Gunning for the Buddha   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Classics in North Cliffband

Featured Route For North Cliffband
<a href='/v/pickpocket/105893523'>Pickpocket</a>, <a href='/v/open-mouth-syndrome-oms/105893519'>O.M.S.</a>, Unknown Arete (L. Laeser route?)

Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : North Cliffband
This is easily the best 5.11 in the area, and if not for some stiff competition from Eagle Canyon, would be the best of the grade at Cochiti. Long and sustained with stellar rock, this line can be a bit intimidating, with somewhat spaced bolts. This route is rather slabby, and as such, the holds are quite small....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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