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 ADVANCED
Ed and Terry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S,TR 
Call it a Knight S,TR 
Captured For Rapture T 
Dipthong T 
DJW Memorial T 
Edge of Knight T 
Edge of the World T 
Edge-n-Scary T 
First Kiss T,TR 
Flakes T,TR 
Full Skuck T 
Hotwired T 
I'm Not Lichen This S 
I.D. Claire S 
Lucky Streak T 
Main Crack T 
Neosymian Thugs S 
No Way In Hell T,TR 
North Chimney T 
North Crack T 
Real McCoy T,TR 
Roaches on a Face T 
Vote for Your Mom S 
Y Crack, The T 

North Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 25, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Ed and Terry North Side 7 North Chimney 5.7 8 Nort...

Description 

A line that follows a series of broken quartzite weaknesses, with a bit of offwidth and about ten feet of actual chimney.

At the north side (left) of Ed and Terry scramble east and up a bit and then scramble up some 4th class terrain to a ledge with a bush. This is probably the best belay spot, although you could certainly belay from lower down (before the 4th class scramble).

Continue up some easier 5th class terrain while bearing a bit left where the stemming is easier. Arrive at a section of offwidth crack, make a tenuous move or two to get established in the chimney outside of the offwidth, sit back and enjoy the view.

When finished lollygagging head up for the chain anchors, or continue to the top if walking off (a gear anchor will be necessary).

Location 

Climbs up the wider section of the north side of the main Ed and Terry wall. In the shade most of the day.

Protection 

Nuts small to large, cams of all sizes, slings.

There is a chain anchor near the top, or continue to the top of Ed and Terry and belay from there.

(I used a mixture of small and medium nuts, a #2.5 DMM 4CU, and the following Camalot C4's: #.5, #2, #5, #6. The big stuff probably isn't necessary, but the #6 was nice to have.)


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