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Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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North Chimney 

M4

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus: M4 [details]
FA: 
Season: The best conditions are in late spring, but you can find miserable conditio
Page Views: 3,469
Submitted By: Chris Sheridan on May 23, 2009

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Ty Cook just about to flop over onto Broadway from...

Description 

The North Chimney is often viewed as either that horrible, loose rock approach to The Diamond in the summer or if you're so inclined, that horrible loose snow approach to The Diamond in winter. However, in the spring this chimney forms up as a pretty decent mixed route. Broadway is a pretty amazing place to be this time of year, and rapping the Crack of Delight rappels is easy enough. The could also make an interesting start to either Kiener's or The Window.

The climbing starts out easy enough as the obvious snow gully leading up to Broadway. The climbing get progressively harder and more interesting, with the most difficult, steep, drytooling sections on the last pitch. Cut left at the end, hack through a snow flute, and flop over. Voila, you're on Broadway.

Protection 

A standard mixed route of stoppers, cams to 2 inches, a few pins, and one ice screw.


Photos of North Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Ty Cook starting up the first pitch of the North Chimney.  Photo by Chris Sheridan, 5-18-09.
Ty Cook starting up the first pitch of the North C...
Ty Cook a bit further up the first pitch of the North Chimney.  Photo by Chris Sheridan 5-18-09.
Ty Cook a bit further up the first pitch of the No...
Ty Cook leading the crux last pitch of the North Chimney on Longs Peak with Mount Lady Washington in the background.  Photo by Chris Sheridan, 5-18-09.
Ty Cook leading the crux last pitch of the North C...
Ty Cook working out a steep step on the second pitch of The North Chimney on Longs Peak.  Photo by Chris Sheridan, 5-18-09.
Ty Cook working out a steep step on the second pit...

Comments on North Chimney Add Comment
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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 9, 2009

Congrads looked like a steller day, it seems like the north chimney route is better in the early season( with a little snow on it) would you agree.
By Chris Sheridan
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2009

it was pretty soggy when we were up there, but were on it pretty late in the day and it was during a warm spell. Hard to tell if it would be better later or earlier. Probably later, as the snow wasn't quite consolidate into true springtime snow quite yet. I bet things are pretty good up there right now.