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The north wall of Falling Rock Canyon is where the bulk of the climbs have been established. The aspect of the cliff is south facing, so climbing is good at this wall in the winter, but it can be too hot during scorching summer afternoons. The climbing is mainly on vertical limestone faces with small pockets. Also, there are at least three crack climbs on this face.
Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff immediately after turning off highway 44. Follow a trail east from the parking spots for several hundred feet to the cliff side. This trail leads all the way to the canyon rim edge. A large tree grows from just below the rim. This is the top of Garden Party. To the left and the right are several sets of bolted anchors for other various climbs.
18 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in North Canyon Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Canyon Wall:
Paperboy Centerfold 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Garden Party 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Two Bits 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
France By Chance 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Seams to Go 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Blockhead 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Killer Wasp From Hell 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Flatland Fever 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Adaptation 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
One Finger Solution 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, TR, 50'
Featured Route For North Canyon Wall
Why Be Normal 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c SD : Falling Rock : North Canyon Wall
Fun varied climbing on the longest route at Falling Rock. The guidebook rates this at 5.9 but I have a hard time believing it even makes the 5.8 grade as I suggested. The initial moves to the 1st bolt and pulling over the bulge to get above it are the hardest. After that it's a cruiser on good holds. Very good for a first lead at FR as long as the start doesn't scare you away. ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD