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North Canyon Wall

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Adaptation 
Avoid, The 
Blockhead 
Bucky Done Gun 
Dawning Direct, The 
Dawning, The 
Flatland Fever 
France By Chance 
Freight Club 
Garden Party 
Head Solution 
Killer Wasp From Hell 
One Finger Solution 
Paperboy Centerfold 
Seams to Go 
Tension Comprehension 
Two Bits 
Why Be Normal 

North Canyon Wall 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2002
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Description 

The north wall of Falling Rock Canyon is where the bulk of the climbs have been established. The aspect of the cliff is south facing, so climbing is good at this wall in the winter, but it can be too hot during scorching summer afternoons. The climbing is mainly on vertical limestone faces with small pockets. Also, there are at least three crack climbs on this face.


Getting There 

Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff immediately after turning off highway 44. Follow a trail east from the parking spots for several hundred feet to the cliff side. This trail leads all the way to the canyon rim edge. A large tree grows from just below the rim. This is the top of Garden Party. To the left and the right are several sets of bolted anchors for other various climbs.

From here, either set up a toprope on one of the anchors, or retrace your steps part of the way back towards the car. A faint trail can be seen which leads into a chimney with a chockstone in it. Squeeze through the hole in the chimney to get to the canyon floor, and then traverse over to the base of the climbs to lead them.


18 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Canyon Wall:
Paperboy Centerfold   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Garden Party   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Two Bits   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
France By Chance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Seams to Go   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Blockhead   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Killer Wasp From Hell   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Flatland Fever   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Adaptation   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
One Finger Solution   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, TR, 50'   
Browse More Classics in North Canyon Wall

Featured Route For North Canyon Wall
At the top with a 20 foot runout below me and only four pieces below that. Definitely want to be very confident in your abilities if you are going to lead this one.

Seams to Go 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  SD : Falling Rock : North Canyon Wall
I've heard this route called "Seams to Be" as well. It is a small crack running up the face to the left the "Unnamed" 5.9 route. There are some anchors w/chains at the top, and I've heard most people say it's best to toprope this one as gear placements can be a little sketchy....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

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