|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 800'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Peter Croft and Hayden Kennedy|
|Submitted By:||hkennedy on Feb 14, 2013|
|Comments on North Buttress Variation.||Add Comment|
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By Vlad S
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thanks for the cool hardman variation! It's pretty easy to follow and topo isn't necessary. Here's some additional beta:
The 2nd 5.8 pitch seems to start and end at two KB pitons and climbs up some scary razor-sharp flakes a bit to the right. While it's only 15 m and possible to link with p1 with some sumulclimbing or with the 3rd pitch, it's important to watch where the rope is running as there are a lot of places where it can be cut in an instant.
p3 is pretty mellow difficulty-wise. We thought 5.11- at most. However, it's hard not to dislodge most of the flakes that you'll grab onto your belayer. This pitch will take a long time to clean up, if it ever does. We climbed the right crack that continues into the RF corner above, then about 15 ft below the half driven KB piton traversed over left. It's also possible to traverse level with the piton at the same difficulty.
p4, while a beautiful splitter, it was more of a C1 beauty for us. The rating is a total sandbag. We thought we had a good chance of onsighting it if it's really 11+. However, when you get about 15 ft up the crack pinches down to below red C3 size and it's not possible to even get your pinkies in. Walls on both sides are very smooth with only one or two poor footholds for the whole way up to the roof. You have to layback the beast (crack is offset by no more than 1/4 of an inch) with your feet skating around on calcite and a bit of lichen. I couldn't even imagine firing in gear from no feet/tips layback like that and still calling it 5.11+. I managed the first few hard moves and one piece before I was ready to expel my breakfast. The undercling on the left wall at the beginning of the difficulties is tempting, but unless you value your partner's life, I wouldn't touch it. My partner snapped off a book-size chunk off of it without too much effort, but the whole block is barely attached. Once you get to the roof - it's safe sailing to the large ledge above. Glory hands lead to more choss at the top. I'd bring 2-3 sets of 0 and 1 C3s and at least one of each 00 and 000 C3s. If you expect 5.11 climbing, an aider would not go unused as well. You could go with just one #3, if not afraid of a touch run-out 5.10- handcrack. 45m, SOLID 5.12.