Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dragtooth
Select Route:
North Buttress (aka the Dragrace aka the Dragway) T 

North Buttress (aka the Dragrace aka the Dragway) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Reed Cundiff & Jack Miller, 1971 FFA: Jay Smith & Paul Crawford, 1983
Page Views: 2,510
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The striking dihedral of the Dragtooth.

Description 

"One of the classic climbs in the High Sierra, this route deserves more traffic," writes R.J. Secor of the North Buttress of Dragtooth.

The route ascends a striking left-facing dihedral that is visible from afar. Scramble up a snowfield/glacier and crumbly rock to gain a ledge with a 2-piton anchor. Rope up beneath a chimney at the bottom of the buttress. Climb the chimney (5.7) and continue straight up the face for a full rope length to belay. Traverse right on loose rock (past a hangerless 1/4" bolt) to the base of the prominent left-facing dihedral and a single piton. The next 2 pitches ascend the dihedral, and constitute the best climbing on the route. The first dihedral pitch is 5.9 and ends at a stance with 2 quarter-inch bolts (best to back up). The fourth pitch (100') continues on 5.9 terrain, culminating in a section of 5.10 off-width to gain a belay in a small alcove. BEWARE OF THE LOOSE, STACKED BLOCKS guarding the exit from the clean corner! One final 5.9/9+ pitch ascends a finger-to-hands crack for 140'. From here, 3rd and 4th class scrambling for several pitches lead to the summit.

Descend via the notch between Dragtooth and Matterhorn Peak.


Location 

From Mono Village at the west edge of Twin Lakes, hike south along the Horse Creek trail up switchbacks past Horsetail Falls as for Matterhorn Peak. Veer SW at the prominent Horse Creek Tower, crossing a snowfield to the base of Dragtooth. Allow 4 hours for the approach.


Protection 

Standard rack with double set of cams to 4" (Two #4 Camalots are particularly useful).



Photos of North Buttress (aka the Dragrace aka the Dragway) Slideshow Add Photo
Just past the loose 5.9 traverse and getting into the dihedral.
Just past the loose 5.9 traverse and getting into ...
Old 1/4" bolt anchor on the route.
BETA PHOTO: Old 1/4" bolt anchor on the route.
Ken Klis on the summit of Dragtooth
Ken Klis on the summit of Dragtooth
Mike Morley at a stance 1/3 of the way up THE corner.
Mike Morley at a stance 1/3 of the way up THE corn...
The 5.9+ finger to hands crack on pitch 5.
The 5.9+ finger to hands crack on pitch 5.
The upper part of the corner at 4".
The upper part of the corner at 4".
Comments on North Buttress (aka the Dragrace aka the Dragway) Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 1, 2007

Be prepared for loose rock - this route does not seem to be climbed often (the last summit entry was from 1997). Also, I have kept the original grade III rating, although with approach and descent, count on a grade IV day.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2007

Climbed this in the mid/late 80's, hoping for the FFA. Had a great climb but Jay & Paul beat us to it. The line certainly is striking from afar.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 31, 2007

Dang, George! Is there anywhere you haven't climbed??!!

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2007

I haven't climbed much east of the Mississippi ...

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 13, 2009

I was flipping through a Climbing mag from spring of 84 and this route was reported there as the Dragrace. Someone mixed up the name, but whether it was Secor or Climbing, I don't know.

By Reed Cundiff
Nov 25, 2009

This was supposed to be a Fred Beckey, Jack Miller and myself climb but Fred came down with a bad cold and let Jack and I do it. Fred met us at the top. The only aid was on the 5.10 off-width as there was no gear at the time to protect it. We were able to aid on small cracks on either side of the dihedral. There is a great hand traverse to the left at the end of final real pitch where you could see the glacier way down between your legs. The route down was down an easy snow slope

I hope the George Bell above is not the one who did Yerupaha in 1955; otherwise, he is over 80 years old
- Reed Cundiff

By Ken Klis
Mar 28, 2011

Craig Tatum and Claude Fiddler told me about this route in the mid-80's, and called it Dragrace.

Down with Dragway.

By supert
Jul 22, 2013

Chaz, Mike and I climbed this yesterday. Super scenic. Would give it a grade IV. After the summit (register needs new pen:), seemed best to descend to the sandy basin below, then up gully to notch. Once descending the notch, if you chose the couloir to skier's L, there are 2 rappels; blocks with old slings. The couloir to the R is a steep snow gully, where an ice axe would have been helpful.