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DescriptionGreat, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs. Getting There1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utopia:
Tjurunga 5.6 PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
The Notovitch Codex 5.7 PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Spear of Destiny 5.9 PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Terma 5.9 PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 330 feet
S=k log W 5.9+ PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Adam-Ondi-Ahman 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Featured Route For Utopia
Terma 5.9 PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Utopia
P1 Face climb following bolt line passing rap station. Clip one more bolt to great spacious belay ledge with a bomber two-bolt belay station. 5.8, 11 bolts, 110 feet.P2 Up, then left, pull a fun mantle, then back right to a huge belay ledge with a rap/belay station with 3 bomber bolts. Long draws on bolts #3, (optional long on bolt #4) and bolt #5 to reduce drag. 5.8, 8 bolts, 110 feet.P3 Climb up following the crack line. Cut left into the corner take tha...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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