North Arête 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Summer & Fall |
| Submitted By: | littlemike on Jun 26, 2008 |
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The route follows the left of the tree in the fore...
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Description The North Arête Route starts in a small chimney in the back of a corner and is not the prominent dihedral which will be to the left. For the first pitch, head up the small chimney (5.6) and then up a broken face (fourth class). The second pitch appears to have choice of two chimney systems. We headed up the left side and stayed closer to the edge of the arête. It looks like there is a second chimney to the right. In either case this ends below a huge section of white quartz, hence the name Crystal Crag.. A short half pitch of this put us on the ridge. A couple hundred feet of mixed third and fourth class climbing with the occasional fifth class move thrown in the summit.
Location Crystal Crag is directly behind Crystal Lake and is easily visible from the parking at George Lake.
Protection Typical Sierra Rack, many solo this route, but I don't
solid crystal formations high on the ridge.
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on top of the north arete.
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Near the summit.
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 9, 2010
rating: Easy 5th
| A really fun, easy romp with a short approach. Two and a half pitches of 4th/easy 5th class climbing. |
By Joel Hickok
Mar 5, 2012
| I guess the grade of this route would be dependent on exactly how you started the climb. My partner and I didn't really know where to start for sure, and picked the most exciting looking and steep variation. This was up the corner to the left of the tree in the beta photo on MP. This seemed to be in the 5.7-5.8 range (?). |
By saltlick
From: the bedroom
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.5
| As Croft says, a tiny mountain-climb! IMO the 5.easy ridge traverse to the summit is the best part of the route...great rock and absolutely stellar position. |
By timmaly
From: Menlo Park, CA
Sep 12, 2012
| Did this a few weeks ago. Really fun, easy climb, with unique features (crystal gulley/dihedral), awesome setting and a ridge traverse that reminded me a bit of Mt Conness or Matthes Crest. The start was a little tricky to find so I am posting a photo. Basically look for a ramp leading up to a chimney that is climbers-right of the base of the arete. Climb up a pitch and then break left for the arete proper. We did three pitches up to the ridge, three more pitches along the ridge to the summit and then one descent pitch (continuing along the ridge) before we could exit climbers-right and scramble down the west face. We found the descent to be pretty loose. Have fun!
| Crystal Crag, North Arete, route starts in chimney at top of ramp (just above climber in this picture)
Submitted By: timmaly on Sep 12, 2012
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