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 ADVANCED
Bear Creek Spire
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East Arete 
North Arete 
Northeast Ridge 

North Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Galen Rowell, Jeanne Neale - August 1971
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 12,013
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 14, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Bear Creek Spire viewed from the Dade Lake area. ...

Description 

A fine alpine rock climb with a wonderful prospect over Little Lakes Valley.

P1 5.6. Snowline dependent, cracks in slabs to a ledge where it gets steeper.

P2 5.8. Steep flake crack on the left to a ledge.

P3 5.7. Up and right over flakes to where the arete relents a little. Route-finding can be tricky.

P4/5 Easy 5th. Up the crest of the arete in a wonderful position to a ledge below the final impasse, a steep off-width crack.

P6 5.8 crux. The crack awkwardly.

P7 Easy 5th. Tunnel through to the other side of the ridge.

To finish, join with the Northeast Ridge and follow it to the top, or it might be more in keeping with the rest of the route to doggedly stay on the very crest of the ridge/arete to the summit. Either will deposit you on the crest of the summit ridge and just excellent and scenic scrambling/climbing for a pitch or two.

Don't forget to mantle onto the summit block!


Location 

Approach:
From Dade Lake hike across benches and then snow up to just right of the lowest point of the buttress.

Descent:
Descend down Class 4 rocks on the East side to sand, follow left of the north ridge then cut over it eastwards and down snow/scree and steps back to Dade Lake.


Protection 

Standard alpine rack. Ice axe and crampons seasonal.



Photos of North Arete Slideshow Add Photo
The North Arete of Bear Creek Spire viewed from the west.
The North Arete of Bear Creek Spire viewed from th...
John and Tony on pitch 2.
John and Tony on pitch 2.
The N Arete lit from the west.
The N Arete lit from the west.
The spectacular Bear Creek Spire
The spectacular Bear Creek Spire
Little Lakes Valley
Little Lakes Valley
Jascha about to top out on P6 (P5 on Supertopo)
Jascha about to top out on P6 (P5 on Supertopo)
success!
success!
Meghan approaching the top of pitch 2.
Meghan approaching the top of pitch 2.
Meghan at the notch.
Meghan at the notch.
Summit ridge.
Summit ridge.
The final 4th class pitches to the summit. Note the "smog" in the background due to the <a href=Zaca Mesa fire burning north of Santa Barbara." />
The final 4th class pitches to the summit. Note th...
getting closer
getting closer
The summit block.
The summit block.
Tony Tennessee leading off on pitch 1.
Tony Tennessee leading off on pitch 1.
Stormy skies over BCS and Dade.  Time for us to bail.
Stormy skies over BCS and Dade. Time for us to ba...
Jascha approaching the P5 belay (P4 on Supertopo)
Jascha approaching the P5 belay (P4 on Supertopo)
The North ArÍte follows the left skyline.
BETA PHOTO: The North ArÍte follows the left skyline.
DVS leading the start of the crux pitch. The off-width/"chimney" is pressed up against the the obvious wall on the left. Photo by E. Kim.
DVS leading the start of the crux pitch. The off-w...
John negotiates a gendarme.
John negotiates a gendarme.
Looking up at a party on the crux pitch (.10b variation) we unknowingly followed thinking it was 5.8 boy were we surprised!
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at a party on the crux pitch (.10b vari...
navigating the upper ridge
navigating the upper ridge
John Fujii at the top of pitch 1.
John Fujii at the top of pitch 1.
view toward Dade
view toward Dade
5.9 variation
5.9 variation
Looking to the E
Looking to the E
Eric Collins following one of the lower pitches, circa 1985
Eric Collins following one of the lower pitches, c...
The 5.9(?) variation off the P3 belay (P2 per Supertopo).  The main route goes slightly right up the "trough", then up the flake system.
BETA PHOTO: The 5.9(?) variation off the P3 belay (P2 per Supe...
N Arete, viewed from the descent (looking SE)
N Arete, viewed from the descent (looking SE)
Jascha approaching the P3 (P2 in Supertopo) belay
Jascha approaching the P3 (P2 in Supertopo) belay
Summit of BCS
Summit of BCS
Michelle on the 5.10 dihedral variation on P6 (P5 on Supertopo).  The variation climbs the front of the tower, while the main route goes up a right-trending off-width behind the tower. photo by Jascha
BETA PHOTO: Michelle on the 5.10 dihedral variation on P6 (P5 ...
jim following after 5.8 crux section
jim following after 5.8 crux section
Adam soloing P1
Adam soloing P1
Descending the NE Ridge to escape the storms.
Descending the NE Ridge to escape the storms.
Climbers on the N Arete as seen from the NE Ridge.
Climbers on the N Arete as seen from the NE Ridge.
Me leading fifth pitch (5.8).  Photo by Justin Marion
Me leading fifth pitch (5.8). Photo by Justin Mar...
Dave Burda and Lisa Pritchett on the North Arete of Bear Creek Spire.
Dave Burda and Lisa Pritchett on the North Arete o...
Adam on the approach
Adam on the approach
BCS from the Gem Lake approach trending left up the shallower talus fields.  I think this is easier than the Treasure Lakes slabs or going right up the steeper talus at Gem Lake.
BCS from the Gem Lake approach trending left up th...
thumbs up so far on the route
thumbs up so far on the route
final snow field
final snow field
view toward Dade
view toward Dade
P1 per Mt Project
P1 per Mt Project
almost to the summit block
almost to the summit block
Jascha following up the first pitch
Jascha following up the first pitch
view down the E Arete
view down the E Arete
P2 per Mt Project (P1 per Supertopo)
BETA PHOTO: P2 per Mt Project (P1 per Supertopo)
en route <br />
en route
Comments on North Arete Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 9, 2013
By 426
Mar 5, 2007

P2...I've always done the thin crack (10a?) to the right of the gash/chimney. Obliviates the need to drag a pack through the wide business.

The ridge is pretty long and complicated if you are not fast, factor that in timewise.

By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Jul 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The off width pitch is a little loose but I found it to be a lot harder then 5.8 probably more like 5.10. Climbing that pitch with a pack is definitely not fun, next time I would either haul it or not climb with ice axes.

By Dan Popa
Aug 8, 2007

Not nearly as hard as some would have you believe. No problems route finding using the Supertopo guide. Our pitch break-down was a little different than that listed above since we simuled all but 3 pitches which were no harder than 5.7. Crux pitch consists of "5.8" flakes that we just stemmed and reached through with a loose gulley above that goes at a reasonable 5.6 in the Supertopo. 2/3 of us had packs and had no trouble navigating through this section. Pro everywhere you want it throughout the climb: w/ 10cams, 1 set of nuts, and slings we were doing simul pitches over 250ft no problem. Ample belay stations. Climb can best be characterized by easy 5th class/4th class moves with some moderate 5 moves in between. Summit is spectacular with an unprotectable but not difficult top-out. Not the greatest pure climbing route but extremely fun nonetheless. A classic because of the line it takes.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 20, 2007

Great route. I agree with the previous poster that the route is mostly easy-moderate 5th class with a few short, well-protected sections up to 5.8. The "5.8 offwidth" (~pitch 6) was mellow and certainly not an offwidth. Vdub: maybe you were off route?

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 22, 2007

Hey veedublvr, you and I were indeed off-route--and so were the two parties above us! It seems we should have dodged the headwall by going left. Nice lead anyway!

By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jun 3, 2008

Ice axes? I'm not sure what those would have been used for. I'm not a great climber, but I managed to do this route in a couple of hours in approach shoes wearing a small day pack. I agree with stemming past the supposed OW crux. I thought it was very fun and pretty cruiser if you're not at your limit.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 19, 2009

Michael, that's why I added "seasonal" to the ice-axe statement.

By fossana
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2010

We climbed a 5.9? variation right off the P3 belay (P2 per Supertopo), which went straight up instead of right then up the flake system. See photo here.

Also did a 5.10 dihedral variation on P6 (P5 on Supertopo) that goes up the front of the tower instead of behind it. Note that it tops out higher than depicted in the Supertopo diagram, near the top of the 5.6 chimney.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 1, 2010

We also climbed a 5.9 variation on pitch 2 (using Supertopo pitch breakdown, although not the 5.9 fingers variation they show---more like a 4"-to-hands variation). All the giant flakes look steep from the belay, so it was really hard to figure out which was the 5.7. Thereupon immediately I launched into a somewhat gritty and sustained dihedral with crappy feet but secure arm bars and eventual slammer hands.

By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Sep 8, 2011

This description says it's six pitches (then describes how it joins with the Northeast Ridge).

That is somewhat misleading, if you believe it is only six pitches. It will take 10 or 11 pitches to get to the top (if you're pitching it out, which we did), where the descent begins. A fairly long day.

Excellent rock and climbing.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 22, 2012

No, it says 7 pitches - plus after joining the the NW Ridge you'll have to negotiate the upper part of that route too.

By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 6, 2012

Great route. Not sustained. Seemed soft for 5.8. I found pitch 6 to be fine with a pack on. It's great chimneying with perfect jams. What more could you want? Not sure why the common way is to bail off the ridge early. Just stick to it for mostly 4th/easy 5th on good rock. I found maybe 2 15ft 5.8 sections and it climbs directly to the summit. Seems like the obvious choice for the line!

By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Jul 24, 2012

The description on here does in fact say it is 6 pitches (then mentions a 7th, which was the 6th we did). I pitched out the whole route and it ended up being 12 to the summit. Could have done it in 11. Pretty fun climb. Long day.

By Richard Shore
Aug 27, 2012

During a thunderstorm on Saturday August 18 (I believe), a massive rockfall occured in the gully just to the right of the North ArÍte. Many 1,000's of tons of rock were spit out, including boulders up to 15' in diameter. Some of these nearly jumped over the moraine! Fresh rock flour was everywhere, and during our climb on the 19th, pebble-to-bowling ball size chunks were continuously raining down the gully. Climbers should take caution while approaching/hanging out at the base of the North ArÍte, as the debris flow passes within feet of the start of the route. On a positive note, no crampons or axe are needed as the snow field is now covered with (loose) rock.

By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Sep 9, 2013

Just climbed this with Rico. P2 was the crux & highlight. A lot of terrain felt 3rd class and was fun simul-climbing. We led pitches 1,2 & 5.