|Type:||Aid, 28 pitches, 2400', Grade VI|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C3 [details]|
|FA:||Robbins, Pratt, Chouinard, Frost|
|Submitted By:||Ryan Huetter on Nov 29, 2008|
|Comments on North America Wall||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Rob Dillon
Jan 15, 2009
|This route's reputation for loose rock is a bit behind the times. You can find it, but the only time I felt like there was loose stuff of consequence was when we were dragging our bags across the bottom of the Cyclops' Eye with a party 1500' below. The adventuresome feel comes more from the wandering line and frequent switching between free and aid climbing amidst the vast architecture of the North America feature. And from the detritus of 40+ years of ascents- there's some funky old stuff up there!|
By Russ Walling
May 18, 2010
I've posted some vintage pics (see above) from when we (Me, Mike Lechlinski and John Yablonski) did this route.
The year had to be like 1981/2? Fairly uneventful except for the fact when Yabo joined the crew he brought no food or water and the stuff in his haul bag was just clothes and personal items with no caloric or hydration value. Needless to say we ran out of food and water fairly quickly, oh, and it was a heat wave that week as every day was well over 100 in the Valley. We thought we were gonna die.
After about 2 days of only getting a tuna can full of water twice a day, we ended up tossing all our bivy gear at about pitch 20. This jettison included ledges, extra ropes, sleeping bags, and everything else not needed to actually climb. Now was the time for a mad dash for the summit. We made it to the top that evening, even though on the summit slabs Lechlinski had to basically free solo off, completely without a belay, trailing two ropes tied together since we were off route.... and then finally lower the cords back down to me an Yabo as we waited, with exactly zero ropes or gear, on top of the Igloo Block.
Besides all that, it was fairly casual and I would recommend the route.
Jan 21, 2012
|FCA: Dougald MacDonald, Chris McNamara, 1997|
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 11, 2012
As of 9/2012 there was not the loads of fixed gear I was expecting. The route was much more involved than what it looks like on paper. We hand placed a few sawed-offs, one tomahawk, and hammered back in one "fixed" lost arrow on the last pitch. The aid is never too difficult but there are some do-not-fall places that have less than inspiring gear. There is loose rock but it is pretty easy to avoid most of the time.
To the above rack would agree on having a #5 camalot or equivalent, 1 large hook, a bat hook, and a 100ft lower-out line for the bags. We used a long piece of 6mm cord to lower out as the 2nd on many pitches.
A classic line with many classic features and bivies. Besides a few amazing exceptions the climbing is 'meh'.