Norris's Nipple 5.4
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.4 [details] |
| FA: | June Lehman |
| Season: | Summer (low water) |
| Submitted By: | Peter Jackson on Aug 9, 2010 |
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Description Climb straight up through the bulge, onto the face, and up to the 3 foot ledge. Proceed to the top.
The crux of this climb is moving up over the bulge (at the nipple). The face climbing above the bulge can be made harder by moving left or skipping holds.
Location This route is best climbed in the summer when the waterline recedes low enough to reach the bottom of the cliffs at the south end of Hades Heights.
Where the trail ends (at Trudies Terror), step over the railroad tie wall, walking down 6-7 feet. Start just left of the right-facing corner.
Protection Top Rope from several good trees and slingable boulders up top. Bring 100 feet of static line to tie off to trees. 30-50 feet of webbing to sling boulders.
There are a few small hex placements up top for backup as well.
Don't place cams up top. They've been known to be stolen.
It is possible to lead this climb. Stoppers and small cams should do the trick. There is not much pro on the face, but once you reach the ledge you can place several pieces.
You can also choose to place pro behind the right side of the bulge in the large crack (medium to large cams), but those placements are dubious at best.
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