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 ADVANCED
Carderock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's Crack TR 
Beginner's Face TR 
Biceps TR 
Billy Goat Boulder 
Buckets of blood (overhang) 
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 
Bulge, The TR 
Bump, The TR 
Butterfly TR 
Chris's Goat TR 
Copycat TR 
Crack, The T,TR 
Cripple's Crack TR 
Cripple's Face TR 
Crippling Paralysis TR 
Crystal Ship TR 
Desperation TR 
Diamond, The T,TR 
Dream Direct, The TR 
Dream, The TR 
Easy Layback TR 
Eight Ball TR 
Elsie's TR 
Elsie's Arete TR 
Elsie's Other TR 
Fingernail TR 
Flake, The TR 
Flutterby TR 
Friction Layback TR 
Golden Staircase TR 
Green Bucket TR 
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T 
Herbie's Horror TR 
Herbie's Left TR 
Incipient TR 
Iron Cross TR 
Jam Crack TR 
Jan's Face TR 
Kindergarten TR 
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 
Mad Dog TR 
Merv's Nerve TR 
Norris's Nipple T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 
Outlook Rock Boulder 
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T 
Rack, The T,TR 
Ronnie's Leap TR 
Serenity Syndrome TR 
Shipley's TR 
Silver Spot TR 
Spider Walk TR 
Sterling's Crack TR 
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 
Swayback Layback TR 
Tea and Scrumpet 
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 
Triple A TR 
Trudie's Terror TR 
Yellow Jacket TR 
Zig Zag TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Norris's Nipple 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: June Lehman
Season: Summer (low water)
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: Peter Jackson on Aug 9, 2010

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Description 

Climb straight up through the bulge, onto the face, and up to the 3 foot ledge. Proceed to the top.

The crux of this climb is moving up over the bulge (at the nipple). The face climbing above the bulge can be made harder by moving left or skipping holds.


Location 

This route is best climbed in the summer when the waterline recedes low enough to reach the bottom of the cliffs at the south end of Hades Heights.

Where the trail ends (at Trudies Terror), step over the railroad tie wall, walking down 6-7 feet. Start just left of the right-facing corner.

Protection 

Top Rope from several good trees and slingable boulders up top. Bring 100 feet of static line to tie off to trees. 30-50 feet of webbing to sling boulders.

There are a few small hex placements up top for backup as well.

Don't place cams up top. They've been known to be stolen.

It is possible to lead this climb. Stoppers and small cams should do the trick. There is not much pro on the face, but once you reach the ledge you can place several pieces.

You can also choose to place pro behind the right side of the bulge in the large crack (medium to large cams), but those placements are dubious at best.


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