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> Torre Grande, N Summit
"Normalweg " "Via Normale."
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 530 ft (161 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | G. Ghedina, et. al., 1880 |
Page Views: | 779 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Rodger Raubach on Sep 24, 2014 |
Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
This route is historically the easiest and enjoyable way of reaching the North Summit. The route finding is somewhat indirect, but it shares the same first pitches with the Normale or "Nuvolau Weg" to the South Summit. Pitch 1 follows a gully system trending towards climber's left, passing some iron rods or "pegs" and to a belay stance. Cemented piton or ring anchor. Squeeze under the enormous chockstone to easy climbing (5.2/5.3) to another fixed anchor. Some climbing in coils or steep scrambling take one to a ledge with a Memorial Plaque, and a short downclimb to a terrace. Climbb through and around some large chockstones in the gully to a 20 foot section of fixed rope leading to climber's left, into the "Labyrinth" of chockstones. Tunnel under one enormous chockstone to arrive at another belay. From here, 2 more short leads up a slab and through gully/dihedral/chimneys to the summit.
Abseil and down climb the route.
Abseil and down climb the route.
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