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Routes in 2. Mallo Pison & El Puro
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Alberto Rabadá o Murciana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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La Carnavalada S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Normal al Mallo Pisón S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Normal al Puro S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Via Pany-Haus T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 550 ft (167 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,318 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Rick Ziegler on Apr 13, 2014 |
| Admins: | Robert Hall, Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
When looking at El Pisón from Riglos, El Puro (the cigar) is the tower attached to the left skyline of El Pisón. "I want to climb that" was my first thought. In fact, this was last summit to be reached in Riglos and required 5 attempts and 2 deaths before success in 1953 by Alberto Rabadá and co.
Overall, I thought route had some good and some forgettable climbing. But the tiny summit is unforgettable. The route has two starts. The original, easier and wandering start or the "Entrada Directa." The direct start begins on the northwest side of El Pisón in a steep dihedral/chimney (5.10a) for two fun pitches. An easy traverse leads to a cable, leading the base of chimney separating El Pisón from El Puro. Getting into easy chimney provides the first crux (5.10d or A0). 2 easy chimney pitches get you to the south side of El Puro.
Here the rock deteriorates a bit. It's 60m to the summit with one more 5.10d (or A0) crux.
Overall, I thought route had some good and some forgettable climbing. But the tiny summit is unforgettable. The route has two starts. The original, easier and wandering start or the "Entrada Directa." The direct start begins on the northwest side of El Pisón in a steep dihedral/chimney (5.10a) for two fun pitches. An easy traverse leads to a cable, leading the base of chimney separating El Pisón from El Puro. Getting into easy chimney provides the first crux (5.10d or A0). 2 easy chimney pitches get you to the south side of El Puro.
Here the rock deteriorates a bit. It's 60m to the summit with one more 5.10d (or A0) crux.
Location
Rappel off the summit with one or two ropes but pay attention to the direction of the wind. Apparently a strong north wind can wrap ropes around the chock stone at the base of the tower. Shorter rappels seem to avoid this. Then, more rappelling below the chimney. (Note: can be rapped from summit to ground in 3 rappels with 2 70m ropes)
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