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Noriega Does Panama 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Yvonne MacPherson, Cyndie Bransford & Todd Gordon, January 1990
Page Views: 648
Submitted By: C Miller on Apr 9, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Noriega Does Panama (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP

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Description 

Interesting and well-protected friction up a clean northeast-facing slab. Get on this and get your friction on; much better than some of the more popular but no less accessible routes in the immediate area. Two stars out of five.

Retro-bolted by a member of the FA party this now has two more bolts than it originally did. The added bolts to skip, if you wish to do it in it's original style, are the first and last bolts.


Location 

The furthest right route on the wall, right of Panama Canal.


Protection 

5 bolts (5/16", 3/8"), 2 bolt anchor/rap (3/8", shared with Panama Canal)



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By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 12, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Always a good bet when it's warm, this northeast-facing slab is well-protected and has a trivial approach. The downside is it's shortness and the somewhat grainy nature of the rock. Two stars out of five.

By Justin Slagle
From: Palm Desert, CA
May 26, 2010

I know this climb is short and for that reason probably only deserves 1 star, but for some reason, I like this climb a lot. The rock is good with no hands, only smears, makes you think a bit more than usual. Plus, even though its in one of the more popular areas of indian cove, it's usually away from the masses.

By Bob Gaines
Mar 1, 2013

This has become one of my favorite friction slabs in Indian Cove. Although short, it's very sustained with some pure smearing required. The graininess is long gone.

It has been retro bolted by members of the first ascent team and now has 5 bolts, making it a safe and sane lead, with the bolts closely spaced enough to be considered a sport climb. Plus you can use the 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor at the top of Panama Canal.

Gets shade in the afternoon. Two out of five stars.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Did this route today. To me the crux was exiting the 2nd bolt, but this climb is not a one move wonder. Consistent 5.9 moves afterward doesn't allow one to let their guard down. Three stars out of four when compared to other similarly short routes in the area.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Short day and limited time, this route was part of the day's sports plan. Remembering leading it a a dozen years ago and looking up at it I figure how bad could it be. It's pseudo low angle, scoops and oh joy 5 bolts compared to the 3 bolts previous. Let's go!

Much like Adam, I found the crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. I'm not much for down climbing slabs so upward was my only option. Eases somewhat but not exactly easy from the 3rd to 4th either. Happy to summit without incident sans my whining to my belayer.

Nice enough, might do it again in 2025.