Nordøst Passasjen (The North East Passage)
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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 24 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade VI|
|Consensus: ||5.11a A1 [details]|
|FA: ||Båsen, Bjørgen, Lensen 1995 First Winter Ascent: Andersson, Bø, Sæland|
|Submitted By: ||Ian Hanson on Feb 7, 2013|
High quality granite, this is one of the longer routes on Kjerag and doesn´t see much sun. It is possible to collect water on route and there are good bivy spots starting at Lunsjblokken (the lunch block) atop pitch 7
The first five pitches follow the line up to the tree that is visible on the horizon.
1. 45m 5.10a The first 30 feet or so are a bit loose with plants growing. Otherwise good climbing.
2. 45m 5.8 Good climbing in quality rock. Follow the gulch up.
3. 45m 5.10b "Dobbeltriss" double cracks, gully, to a dihedral.
4. 30m 5.11a Sustained and steep cimbing up a mini dihedral/crack. Excellent climbing!
5. 45m 5.10b/c The first 15-ish feet can be a bit wet, otherwise good climbing.
6. 50m 5.9 Traverse to the left over easy, compact slab under "Hvite veggen" (The White Wall) and up to "Lunsjblokken" (The Lunch Block) Good Bivi
7. 45m easy scrambling Traverse to the left to the base of "Megablokken"
8. 20m 5.6 Up and to the left towards "Vannhullet" (The Watering Hole)
9. 20m 5.6/A1 Fingercracks up the lefthand side of the chimney. The chimney can be climbed at about 5.5 but is wet.
10. 45m 5.8 Climb up and traverse to the right over damp slab.
11. 50m 5.6 Easy climbing up to a large system of ledges called "Lysefjorden Camping" under a steep white wall. Bivi
12. 30m 5.4 Go around the corner to the right and up to a large block.
13. 50m 5.9 Crack/dihedral climbing, then traverse left to a big block.
14. 25m 5.10b Offwidth climbing up to the top of "Kjempeblokken". Friends #1.5 and #2.5 recommended.
15. 50m 5.10c
16. 45m 5.10d
17. 40m 5.10b
18. 35m 5.5 "St. Olav's Chimney"
19. 35m 5.10b/c
20. 50m 5.10c
21. 45m easy climbing
22. 30m 5.6
23. 45m 5.4
24. 15m 5.9
North-east side of the prow, to the left of Hoka Hey
Big wall rack