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Nordkante (North Arete)
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Hexenküche
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Allgäuer Traum S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Athos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baba Jaga S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Belohnung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crash V5 6C |
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Devil Wall S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Devils's Dance V6 7A |
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Diagonalweg S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Direkter Sanduhrweg (Direct Hour Glass Way) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exzess im Morgenrot (Excess at Sunrise) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Feenwald S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gabriels großzügiges Geschenk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Geölter Blitz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hexensex S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hexentanz (Witch's Dance) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Hiltpoltsteiner Weg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Klein und Gemein (Small and Mean) S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Kleine Hexen müssen hexen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kurz und Schmerzlos (Short and Painless) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kurzer Zauber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Master of Stone V6- 7A |
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Mauerblümchen (Wallflower) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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mihi Malte S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nordkante (North Arete) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Nordschlucht (North Gully) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nordwestkante S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ostkamin (East Chimney) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ostschlucht S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ostverschneidung (East Dihedral) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ostwand (East wall) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Phantom Lord V5 6C |
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Pipifax (Codswallop) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rattenschwanz S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Räuber Hotzenplotz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sad Lisa V2 5+ |
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Scherzkeks (Joke Cookies?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Solohex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Teufelspakt V3- 6A |
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Turmwächter (Tower Guard) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ulrikenpfeiler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Völlig Schwerlos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waldenser V1 5 |
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Wer hat Angst vor Anthony Braxton? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zittern verboten (shaking forbidden) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 532 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Shawn Heath on Jun 15, 2011 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath |
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Description
First off, I think the start is WAY harder than 5.5, probably between 5.8 and 5.10something depending on how you do it. Also, as is characteristic with the Frankenjura, the first bolt is pretty high. Then, to further spice it up, the second bolt isn't too bad, but the moves to the third bolt are a bit sketchy and you're above the second bolt. You've got to just be calm and trust that you can do it. After that it's enjoyable, but this is an OLD route, so that's probably where the 5.5 rating comes from.
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