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Noname Needle
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Noname Needle, Standard Route T 

Noname Needle, Standard Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: dancesatmoonrise on Aug 27, 2012

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Gaining the summit block; a huge, flat capstone.

Description 

Noname Needle resides on the Jagged ridgeline, between Jagged Mountain to the east and Gray Needle to the west, at 13,620 feet. It has two summits; the north summit is the true summit. Ascend the weakness between the two summits on the west side. The terrain is about 5.8 on good quality granite.

The route takes pro in the 1-3" range. Belay at the top of this west-facing weakness.

Pitch two is a scramble up and around the west and north sides of, and ultimately onto, the huge summit block, which is about six or eight feet thick, and maybe the size of your living room or dining room. This huge block can easily be seen from the Noname drainage, far below. The views are unparalleled.

Location 

Once in the Noname drainage, the trail is much easier to follow. Ascend the drainage to meadows at 11,000 feet. From here, the trail continues left, up a hill (NE) to treeline. At this point, we crossed the creek and headed directly for the Peak 10 - Noname saddle. Ascend this west drainage, but look for a SW sub-gully to your left. Look for the twin summits of Noname to aim for. The terrain is loose in places but not as steep as it appears from lower down. Mostly third and steep second class. Aim for Noname. We then scrambled up and left to the rock window in the gully between Noname and the needle immediately to the west, then from there, and easy walk to the base of the central west-facing weakness on Noname Needle.

Protection 

1-3".


Photos of Noname Needle, Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
The twin summits of Noname Needle.
The twin summits of Noname Needle.
Looking back on the first pitch of the standard ro...
Looking back on the first pitch of the standard ro...
Cresting the shelf below the summit boulder.
Cresting the shelf below the summit boulder.
Rap the weakness between the twin summits.
Rap the weakness between the twin summits.

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By dancesatmoonrise
Oct 1, 2012

We used a single 60m twin for this trip, which included Sunlight Spire. This works well as a lightwieght option in the alpine, tying in to the middle and using standard twin technique for leading fifth class.