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Lower Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballerina (aka NoName 6), The S 
Bearded Outlaw S 
Calico S 
Graybeard (aka NoName 1) S 
He's an Angry Elf S 
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) S 
NoName 01 S 
NoName 6.5 S 
NoName 6.7 S 
Original Route T 
Pass the Ditchie S 
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) S 
Road Runner S 
Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5) S 
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1)  S 
Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02) S 
Short Sport in the Short Fort S 
Spinefish (aka NoName 7) S 
Squeeze, The S 
Stay True (aka NoName 3) S 
Traditional Values S 
Twister S 
Two Tone S 
Unknown 5.Easy S 

The Ballerina (aka NoName 6) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Fitzgerald
Page Views: 1,202
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: The Ballerina, left of Roadside Attraction at the ...

Description 

The first route left of the trail begins a bit harder than the one on the right. Once again, the second pitch seems the better of the two by far. You can pick off either of the two pitches that start off the ledge behind the tree.

Protection 

Several draws and a rope.


Photos of The Ballerina (aka NoName 6) Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO

Comments on The Ballerina (aka NoName 6) Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 3, 2003

Say what you may, the first half of this route is not 5.9. Much closer to 11.
By Anonymous Coward
May 7, 2005

I would have to agree with the above post it is at least a 5.10 and likely a 5.11.
By Paul Barta
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Apr 25, 2006

I was describing the wrong route. My bad!
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Jun 1, 2006

The opening moves are the only ones on this route that could be harder than 5.9. But you can avoid them by traversing left from #5. The "crux" is certainly the final moves of the 2nd pitch.
By dbyte
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 9, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The 1st pitch is called The Ballerina. Where the 2nd pitch is indicated on the beta photo is an unnamed 5.11b.
By Alex Garhart
Jul 30, 2007

The first couple of moves off the ground, if you stay in the bolt line, are easily hard 5.10.
By Evan Winn
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The beta photo is of the wrong route. It is a good photo of Roadside. Yes, it is easier if you traverse in above the opening moves, but come on! Don't avoid the chalenge, overcome it.

Essentially the route is a V3 with a 5.6 on top of it.