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Dec 16, 2011
on top of the RNWF June 2012
wow, I love the direction this thread is heading! Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Dec 16, 2011
I had a feeling we weren't talking about Herbie Hancock (who released an album in 1980 called Mr Hands) Aric Datesman
Joined Sep 16, 2008
145 points
Dec 16, 2011
Middle
Keenan Waeschle wrote:
wow, I love the direction this thread is heading!


Do you?
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Dec 16, 2011
Well the gear that pinches flakes has been done (albeit not perfected). How about a piece that pinches tufas/knobs? It would be very easy to create mechanical advantage on anything that gets wider as it protrudes...

GO
GabeO
From Denver, CO
Joined May 13, 2006
333 points
Dec 16, 2011
n cascades
How about a device which is used similarly to screamers, but can be reused? I am thinking of something similar to the shock absorbers used for via ferrata, with a cord that slips through some holes. If it could reliably start to slip and limit loads at, say, 2 kn over 2 feet of slip or something it would make tiny nuts a lot more palatable. If the slipping force could be adjusted, and could work even with wet / dirty/ icy ropes, it would be great for ice climbing, too. If the user could use a longer deploying length, then it seems like ANY fall could be held by even the most marginal gear.
2 kn for 2 feet could stop a 200 lb person who had been in free fall for 4.5 feet, even with no stretch in the rope.
Jesse Davidson
From san diego, ca
Joined May 30, 2007
71 points
Dec 16, 2011
Jesse Davidson wrote:
How about a device which is used similarly to screamers, but can be reused? I am thinking of something similar to the shock absorbers used for via ferrata, with a cord that slips through some holes. If it could reliably start to slip and limit loads at, say, 2 kn over 2 feet of slip or something it would make tiny nuts a lot more palatable. If the slipping force could be adjusted, and could work even with wet / dirty/ icy ropes, it would be great for ice climbing, too. If the user could use a longer deploying length, then it seems like ANY fall could be held by even the most marginal gear. 2 kn for 2 feet could stop a 200 lb person who had been in free fall for 4.5 feet, even with no stretch in the rope.


+1 perhaps a small cylinder with shock absorbing liquid. or a spring
EugeneK
From Cambridge, MA
Joined Sep 19, 2011
65 points
Dec 16, 2011
Going of the Via ferrata idea,
what about a screamer that attaches to your tie in points, then you tie the rope to your screamer, theoretically it would reduce the peak load on the gear you fall on. This will probably not be useful for anything other than high fall factor applications, but I've seen a few factors 2s, and think a shock absorber like this could help by reducing the peak load.

I agree with the idea of "making small changes to existing devices". Most effective changes in design are tweaks of existing ideas, not radically new in and of themselves.

Another idea that I had was an improvement of offset cams. Right now, offset cams are use the lobes from 2 different sizes of cams. I am envisioning an offset cam where the lobes are tapered such that if one were to fit the offset vertically, in a smooth, flaring vertical crack, that the cam lobes would be flush with the crack instead of on the edge. This could theoretically increase the surface area of the cam, and therefore make it less likely to "pop" out of place. it could be an easy-ish and interesting design project to test the differences between the standard offsets and my "flared cam" offset idea.
tomhirschfeld
Joined Aug 8, 2011
0 points
Dec 18, 2011
roo, my only son, the stare that takes down a herd...
Jesse Davidson wrote:
How about a device which is used similarly to screamers, but can be reused? I am thinking of something similar to the shock absorbers used for via ferrata, with a cord that slips through some holes. If it could reliably start to slip and limit loads at, say, 2 kn over 2 feet of slip or something it would make tiny nuts a lot more palatable. If the slipping force could be adjusted, and could work even with wet / dirty/ icy ropes, it would be great for ice climbing, too. If the user could use a longer deploying length, then it seems like ANY fall could be held by even the most marginal gear. 2 kn for 2 feet could stop a 200 lb person who had been in free fall for 4.5 feet, even with no stretch in the rope.



reusable shock absorber
any use the gear4rocks reusable shock absorber?

cassin
Ben Beard
From Superior, AZ
Joined Jun 9, 2009
240 points
Dec 18, 2011
roo, my only son, the stare that takes down a herd...
Ben Beard wrote:
reusable shock absorber any use the gear4rocks reusable shock absorber? cassin


Now that I look at the gear4rocks site, does anyone here have any experience with their stuff? plastic nuts?
Ben Beard
From Superior, AZ
Joined Jun 9, 2009
240 points
Dec 18, 2011
Whaaaat?
Ben Beard wrote:
does anyone here have any experience with their stuff? plastic nuts?


I have a set and use them as often as I climb. They're light, place well and seem tough. Although, I haven't fallen on any of them yet.
BackCountry
From Ogden, UT
Joined Oct 29, 2009
421 points
Dec 19, 2011
Am I blind, or did that RE page not show how to rig that thing?

KONG makes a nice reusable screamer called the KISA. It's smaller than it looks in the pic and can be rigged all sorts of ways (including online with your tie-in). kong.it/doc408.htm

Aric Datesman
Joined Sep 16, 2008
145 points
Administrator
Dec 19, 2011
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Peter Franzen wrote:
A device that has the belaying capabilities of a Grigri 2 that can also function as an auto-locking double-rope rappel device would be stupendous. I'm sure the top designers at Petzl et al have put plenty of time into coming up with such a device, but you'd sell them by the truckload if you came up with one first.



Smart Alpine.
Smart Alpine.


I'm pretty sure this thing works like that, although I don't own one so I'm not positive.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
997 points
Dec 24, 2011
Thanks everyone for you ideas and input. I'm a climber myself, and it's nice to hear what the rest of the community sees as gear-related problems, challenges, and opportunities we have yet to meet. Thanks to your contributions, my list of possible senior design projects has defiantly grown.

I am still seeking ideas for gear while I narrow down my list of options.

I am very excited for this project and am expecting it to yield something very useful to us.

Cheers!
DanielS
Joined Dec 10, 2011
0 points
Dec 25, 2011
A better hauler. The pro-traxion has real issues. Kong block roll is heavy as hell, but is a great rig. A lighter hauler with the right hookups to easily rig a 2:1 ratchet would great. Moof
From Portland, OR
Joined Dec 11, 2007
11 points
Dec 26, 2011
muttonface wrote:
I'm pretty sure this thing works like that, although I don't own one so I'm not positive.


It does AND it's half the price of a Gri Gri!
Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,441 points
Administrator
Dec 29, 2011
Me and Pasha on Reveil Matin in Chongkurchak, Kyrg...
muttonface wrote:
I'm pretty sure this thing works like that, although I don't own one so I'm not positive.


I don't own the "alpine smart" but I do own the regular single rope "smart" device. And I wouldn't use a gri-gri 2 after using this. If the alpine smart works as well as the regular smart then its what you are looking for. Auto locking device usable with two ropes. with the added bonus of no moving parts.
Amadeus
From Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Joined Mar 23, 2011
1,053 points
Administrator
Dec 29, 2011
Me and Pasha on Reveil Matin in Chongkurchak, Kyrg...
Ben Beard wrote:
reusable shock absorber any use the gear4rocks reusable shock absorber? cassin


Checking into the Cassin Reusable Shock Absorber you linked to. Looks great and some reviews I read seem to say it works great too. Only problem is that I can't seem to find any gear shops that still sell them. Any ideas?
Amadeus
From Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Joined Mar 23, 2011
1,053 points


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