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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 12, 2011
There's more than one use for an Ice Hammer. Lake District (UK) late '70s

Bolts that are less obtrusive would be nice. I would imagine either a glue in, or expansion that would be a flush mounted receptacle as opposed to a hanger which protrudes, then you would have a quickdraw which would "plug-in" to the receptacle, and a quick release button of some kid that would release the quickdraw when cleaning. To me that would be a doable and interesting engineering design exercise.

Yes I know there are all sorts of technical issues with this.


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By Tom Hanson
Dec 12, 2011
Climber Drawing

To date its seems that all pro is made to fit inside concavities/cracks. I've always thought that some sort of caliper device that locks around tufas or projections would be a nice addtition to the rack. Perhaps something similar to a c-clamp


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By DBarton
From CENTENNIAL, CO
Dec 12, 2011
Moab, Potash Road and Ice Cream Parlor

JesseT wrote:
How about an alternative to the enigmatic "booty clapper"?


I think that creating a new design for a "booty clapper" is a great idea. If you make it simple enough, you could sell the design for sure. If it was small and light, everyone could afford to have it in their packs in case they stick a cam.

More than anything, seems like a realistic design project.


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By ParkerKempf
From atlanta, GA
Dec 12, 2011
sweet belay on El Cap Spire, Salathe Wall El Capitan

id like to see something the protects pockets (that tricams won't fit well in) something like a 4 sided spring loaded set of tongs that push outward instead of inward...similar action as a cam....but with standard and offset arms of all different lengths to fit in weird sandstone holes (monodigit and such)

or maybe a skyhook that has very small lobes on the front and back of the tip so when you place it in an incut crimp you can cam it and make it stick better (maybe not bomber, but it won't be as likey to fall off from rope drag...potentially better than duct tape?)


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By covelocos
Dec 12, 2011
Digs deep!

I give these million dollar ideas away all the time. I have designed two pieces of gear I'll describe here.
The first is for increasing power on hard climbs. It's called the Sandbagger. Ever pick apples? You wear a bag that folds from the bottom and hooks near the top. When the bag is full, you un-hook the bottom and the apples fall out. The Sandbagger is based on this design. You would use two, to even out the weight, one on each side of your harness. (perhaps more for harder climbs) At the base of the climb, both Sandbags would be filled with sand. (dirt would also work, though be of less weight, thus lessening the effectiveness). When the climber reaches the crux, he/she would cut loose the contents, reducing their weight and giving the sense of increased power! (belayer beware)
The second devise is used to collect all the spilled chalk commonly found at the top of most climbs, and at rap stations. It is based on the design of a turkey baster. One would simply suck the chalk dust from the crack or slab, and deposit the 'chalk booty' into their chalkbag! I call this devise the Chalk Booty Baster! It would of course include a clip in loop.
I hope you find these devises helpful for your project, and if you EVER make a DIME from them, KNOW, they are described here by ME for use in my lawsuit. ;)~


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By Tradoholic
Dec 13, 2011

Chris Owen wrote:
Bolts that are less obtrusive would be nice. I would imagine either a glue in, or expansion that would be a flush mounted receptacle as opposed to a hanger which protrudes, then you would have a quickdraw which would "plug-in" to the receptacle, and a quick release button of some kid that would release the quickdraw when cleaning. To me that would be a doable and interesting engineering design exercise. Yes I know there are all sorts of technical issues with this.


I think Fixe made this a few years back. There's a vid with Chris Linder equipping a climb on the beach somewhere with a product exactly as you describe. Was the movie "Spray"?


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By Peter Pitocchi
Dec 14, 2011
Pete belays 2nd pitch Little corner

How about a releasable stop on a cam axle to prevent cam from getting stuck, ie cam gets stuck then you "unscrew" to allow further compression of trigger wire to get it a little bit looser. Could alternatively use a malleable metal to "bend" when you really crank on the trigger Would lose a little range perhaps but would be something to explore.


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By mattm
From TX
Dec 14, 2011
Grande Grotto

Trad Ninja wrote:
I think Fixe made this a few years back. There's a vid with Chris Linder equipping a climb on the beach somewhere with a product exactly as you describe. Was the movie "Spray"?


I think there are two possible things this was..

1) A Climb Tech Removable Bolt - which has existed for a WHILE but is supposedly pretty good in it's current form. Joe Kinder uses them for new route development (among others).



2) It could be the Fixe Triplex Bolt which is easily removable when used in a certain configuration.


Either way, the idea of removable "bolts" has been around a LONG time and is always relegated to rare and unique applications.

With either of the above, you need the "special rack" of gear to climb that ONE climb. So either a rack of Triplex Bolts you'd have to install AHEAD of time before climbing OR a Rack of Removable bolts that you MIGHT plug in on lead. Either way, you're talking a major PITA and very specialized application that almost NO ONE would adapt.

Other issues with a "hole to fill" style are the holes can get filled with dirt, debris, mud (insects have been known to fill these holes) etc etc.

The Aussies and their carrot bolts (requiring a special hanger that you carried with you) have tinkered with this for years. Best I can tell, that style is dying and the universal "hanger you clip" with standard gear is taking over.

You'd have to have a COSMIC shift in philosophy of protecting face climbs in order to get this to happen. Frankly, it's not gonna happen.

The best you can do (right now) for a LOW PROFILE bolt is a Glue-In Titt or Wave Bolt camo'd to match the rock color. On several types of rock they're hard to spot in bare SS.


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By Aric Datesman
Dec 14, 2011

Jeez.... How could we all miss the obvious one? Find a solution to the MaxCam trigger that fixes the issue with the one-way ratchet/head flop. Trango spent ages on it with no success, ultimately ceasing production because of it. Analyzing the forces that cause the flop and finding a solution for it would make quite a nice project (and hopefully bring them back on the market).


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By slim
Administrator
Dec 14, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

how about a "crack gauge" which can be used to assess the size of a crack from the ground? you would basically use it like a little telescope, look up at the crack, and a laser measuring device would use the distance to calculate the width of the crack. seems pretty do-able, and would be handy for the creek.


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By slim
Administrator
Dec 14, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

mr handy?


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By Brian Taylor
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 14, 2011
On WSU campus

Something like this would be pretty cool.

www.yankodesign.com/2011/05/24/simple-safety-for-mountain-climbers/

It looks like it's already been designed though. Obv.


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By Chris D
From the couch
Dec 14, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron

covelocos wrote:
The second devise is used to collect all the spilled chalk commonly found at the top of most climbs, and at rap stations. It is based on the design of a turkey baster. One would simply suck the chalk dust from the crack or slab, and deposit the 'chalk booty' into their chalkbag! I call this devise the Chalk Booty Baster!


Damn dude, I would never give up a cherry idea like this in a public forum.

Near the dawn of the interwebs, I told a friend about an idea I had to make a website that would generate ad revenue from people looking at anonymous people who wanted to know if people thought they were good looking. "Never work" he told me. Years later, after the dot-com bust, he saw the founder of hotornot.com on Oprah, featured as one of the few multi-zillionaires to survive the bust and apologized to me for his advice.

I, of course, was not upset, because, you know, I just wouldn't want to make all that money on exploitation. Not that I could have ever figured out the business part of it. but...

YOU COULD HAVE BEEN THAT DUDE WITH YOUR IDEA!

I'm gonna go make a buck on that idea right now! AND I'm gonna score me some FREE CHALK! WOO HOO!!!


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 14, 2011
OTL

covelocos wrote:
I call this devise the Chalk Booty Baster!


Sorry, I'll undersell you easily...


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By Alex Whitman
Dec 14, 2011
Luxury Liner, Indian Creek

^^^^
Science. Nice.





Well this isn't very funny on the next page.


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Dec 14, 2011

- auto/solo belay device that belays a leader just like a person, and actually works.

- auto jumar/ powered rope climbing device...would need a high energy density power source. (along these lines, I saw an ME design project once that was working on a leg-powered jumar device.)

- a device for drilling bolt ladders at an extended reach. Currently, if you were going to drill a bolt ladder, you would be lucky to get away with one bolt every 5 feet. What if you only had to drill one every 10 feet? I've been envisioning a stiff cantilever that you could attach to the current bolt, then climb up to get in position to drill the next one. Would need to be light weight and strong.

The million dolar idea:
-a way to recondition worn out climbing holds that would return the texture of a like-new hold. I've been envisioning a chemical etching process of some kind.


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By ssimonson09
From Tacoma, WA
Dec 15, 2011
Roadtrip!

Aric Datesman wrote:
Jeez.... How could we all miss the obvious one? Find a solution to the MaxCam trigger that fixes the issue with the one-way ratchet/head flop. Trango spent ages on it with no success, ultimately ceasing production because of it. Analyzing the forces that cause the flop and finding a solution for it would make quite a nice project (and hopefully bring them back on the market).


+1 to this idea. My first experiences w/ trad climbing were with a partner that used the MaxCams and I they're the best. They just seemed to fit into all kinds of placements so easily. I actually found a shop in town that still has one or two and am tempted to buy them soon. Am I gonna die?


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By Aric Datesman
Dec 15, 2011

ssimonson09 wrote:
Am I gonna die?


Without a doubt, yes. But not due to using Maxcams. The flop can be mitigated by slinging long/preventing it from walking. And frankly I think it's more an issue in smooth parallel cracks, as I've never had an issue with it where I generally climb (which has rough, heavily textured cracks).


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By ssimonson09
From Tacoma, WA
Dec 15, 2011
Roadtrip!

Aric Datesman wrote:
Without a doubt, yes. But not due to using Maxcams. The flop can be mitigated by slinging long/preventing it from walking. And frankly I think it's more an issue in smooth parallel cracks, as I've never had an issue with it where I generally climb (which has rough, heavily textured cracks).


Well long term speaking, yes, I will die eventually... probably.

Good to know about the Maxcams, I may have to go pick that one at the shop up soon.


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By Ben Beard
From Superior, AZ
Dec 15, 2011
roo, my only son, the stare that takes down a herd of 'stock

slim wrote:
mr handy?


mr. hands. google it


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Dec 15, 2011

a way to recondition worn out climbing holds that would return the texture of a like-new hold. I've been envisioning a chemical etching process of some kind

Can't holds be treated with some sort of a sandblasting process?


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By Zane Dordai
Dec 15, 2011

www.routesetter.com/2007/09/06/dropping-acid-muriatic-hold-c>>>

IS that what you're referring to? Gets holds back to their original texture. What happens to any climbing hold is as it gets used, the texture is worn away. Seeing as how that texture is usually imprinted by a machine, i cant imagine anything that could recreate that texture...but the acid gives the hold a noticeably more tactile feeling.


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By slim
Administrator
Dec 16, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

Ben Beard wrote:
mr. hands. google it


i'm at work and i'm kind of afraid to google this. can you give me a synopsis?


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Dec 16, 2011
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

mr hands, some dude who fucked horses in enumclaw WA until, while taking a massive horse penis in his ass, ruptured his lower intestine. Didn't go to the ER cause beastiality is illegal and jail sucks, although he might have loved it there... anyway he eventually died. wikipedia it. the story there has no pictures so yer in the clear!


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Dec 16, 2011
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enumclaw_horse_sex_case


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